hey guys 01 gt auto, only mod is a CAI, no codes, its fuel related pump isn't running. first thought was the inertia switch, well it wasn't that, so next thought is fuel pump itself, however as I was getting stuff put together and calling it a day I learned that the drivers side window isn't working either, however the passenger window works from the drivers side control switch. I got it pushed into the garage and heard relays under the dash going crazy and I unhooked the battery.

I drove the car over to my brothers, stopped there and BS'ed with him a little, got back in a few minutes later and it was running rough, and died. I got it started again and again it died. first thought was IAC or MAF, cleaned both with no change, then thought about the Inertia switch, checked for pressure on the fuel rail, nothing, checked the switch itself and it was fine.

does anyone have an idea?

 

I'm starting to think its the PATS, problem is I only have one key when I got this car, I know I can get another from FORD (and get raped for it) but will they have to program it to? or is that something I can do?

 

They have to program the key. Why do you think it's PATS? If you have no fuel pressure you may have a bad FPDM or fuel pump itself.

 

I thought it was PATS because of the blinking "theft" light on the dash. However after charging the battery all night I'm not getting any security light. Time to start checking voltage. I'll start at the fuse panel and work my way back if I have power at the pump but the pump isn't working than I know its the pump itself.

Going to change the fuel filter since I have no fuel pressure.

 

Check the pump with an ohm meter. If it checks good than I would jumper it to see if you can turn it on like that. If you can get it to turn on I would look at the FPDM. That is the part responsible for managing the voltage to the pump to control fuel pressure. If it goes bad you can end up with zero voltage at the pump or not enough to do anything.

 

That's exactly what I did. fuel pump is bad. now I wait until tomorrow for payday to order it. since the car is stock and I don't plan on doing anything crazy (full exhaust, gears, and TB probably) to it i'm just going to stick a stock replacement in.

 

Sorry if I sound like an idiot, I'm new to this world. I'm having the exact same problem, no start and driver's windows not working. How did you determine that it is the fuel pump not functioning and is there anything that could explain both the window and fuel delivery.

 

I don't think the two are connected. I couldn't find a single thing pointing to PATS or anything else affecting both the fuel pump and the window. I'm treating the two as seperate issues. Since I know my.issue is not PATS (rapidly blinking "theft" light on the instrument panel)

I would suggest testing both for electrical current. I unplugged the wiring harness to the fuel pump located at the rear of the tank just offset to the passenger side slightly. There are 8 pins on this, the bottom and second from the right is the positive to the fuel pump. I used a 12v test light put the positive end on that pin, and the negative aligator clip side to the body to ground it. Turn the key to the run position and you should have a light from the tester thats how I know I have power going to the fuel pump. If you do not have current going to that pin (and please double check your ground before determining its not) it might be the FPDM.

As for the window seems the motor gets hung up sometimes and might need a little persuading, or could be a bad switch, or even the motor itself. I have not even tackled looking into the window yet. My brother is having his first baby, a girl, today so the car can wait.

 

Just wanted to update you guys on what it was, and what I did to fix it now that the car has been running for awhile.

It was in fact the Fuel pump it confirmed it a few ways first no sound of the fuel pump running, second I tested the wiring harness going to the fuel pump with a 12v light and confirmed that power was coming to that point. So it was replaced with an Airtex E2366, the reason I went was this pump is because it is a Walbro pump rated at 65-75 GPH, I called Walbro to confirm, and it says walbro right on the pump.

As for the window it was completely unrelated and was caused by a hung up motor, some slight massaging it works fine.