Dry or wet nitrous kit
11-25-2005, 01:41 AM
#2
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RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
https://mustangforums.com/m_808072/m.../tm.htm#808072
https://mustangforums.com/m_647804/m.../tm.htm#647804
https://mustangforums.com/m_394314/m.../tm.htm#394314
https://mustangforums.com/m_353246/m.../tm.htm#353246
https://mustangforums.com/m_277610/m.../tm.htm#277610
https://mustangforums.com/m_270984/m.../tm.htm#270984
https://mustangforums.com/m_223849/m.../tm.htm#223849
https://mustangforums.com/m_153481/m.../tm.htm#153481
https://mustangforums.com/m_647804/m.../tm.htm#647804
https://mustangforums.com/m_394314/m.../tm.htm#394314
https://mustangforums.com/m_353246/m.../tm.htm#353246
https://mustangforums.com/m_277610/m.../tm.htm#277610
https://mustangforums.com/m_270984/m.../tm.htm#270984
https://mustangforums.com/m_223849/m.../tm.htm#223849
https://mustangforums.com/m_153481/m.../tm.htm#153481
11-25-2005, 04:26 AM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
I chose a wet kit so I would not need to worry about having a nitrous tune, and I would not need to worry abouy my fuel injectors. Cutting a fuel line seemed easier (and better in the long run) to me than going with a dry kit.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
11-25-2005, 11:58 AM
#4
Mustang Nazi
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Texas, baby
Posts: 13,444
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
I chose a wet kit so I would not need to worry about having a nitrous tune, and I would not need to worry abouy my fuel injectors. Cutting a fuel line seemed easier (and better in the long run) to me than going with a dry kit.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
I chose a wet kit so I would not need to worry about having a nitrous tune, and I would not need to worry abouy my fuel injectors. Cutting a fuel line seemed easier (and better in the long run) to me than going with a dry kit.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
On a stock motor with stock tune and computer, a dry kit is the safest way to go. I ran the Holley NOS dry kit with a 125 shot and occassionaly a 150 shot for over 4 years with ZERO problems. The key is to research your kits and make sure you cover all the safety bases. Make sure the kit has a WOT microswitch and an rpm window switch. The kit I had, also had a fuel enrichment controller, that adjusted the A/F when you hit the juice.
11-25-2005, 02:04 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,447
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
I chose a wet kit so I would not need to worry about having a nitrous tune, and I would not need to worry abouy my fuel injectors. Cutting a fuel line seemed easier (and better in the long run) to me than going with a dry kit.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
I chose a wet kit so I would not need to worry about having a nitrous tune, and I would not need to worry abouy my fuel injectors. Cutting a fuel line seemed easier (and better in the long run) to me than going with a dry kit.
They are both nearly the same install. Dry kit you will likely need to retune for to adapt the A/F curve (and you will be underpowered when not running nitrous) and if you want to run too large of a shot, your injectors will need to be changed.
The wet kit has you splicing a T-fitting into the fuel line before the regulator, and you retain all normal power when not using the juice.
Of course, over a 75 shot for either and you will need to back off the timing and lose power either way... but a wet kit with a 75 shot is about as simple as it gets. I went with Zex because it comes with a WOT switch, and the install was easy. I'd say Zex wet kit all the way!
Edit: A word of warning with the factory fuel lines, they have a plastic liner in them that gets crunched up when inserting the T-fitting. I took a drill bit and drilled some of the plastic out where the fitting was going to be, cleaned it up with a file, then flushed some fuel through to remove any extra junk that was left behind. Expect them to give you a lot of trouble, and be sure the stang is running strong without the juice before you try it.
11-26-2005, 08:36 PM
#7
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 20
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
What made me nervous about the dry kit is you sprayed in front of the maf sensor,thus fooling the computer into thinking you were driving through Siberia, so it would richin the a/f to provide extra fuel. sounds unreliable to me, don't get me wrong, I'm sure it works but?? If you decide to run over a 75 shot you should go with a wet kit anyway. and we all know 75 is good today, but tomorrow 100 etc, etc.....
11-26-2005, 09:18 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location:
Posts: 75
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
i always heard dry kits are better for stockish motors..and wet kits are more likely to have a nitrous backfire since ur mixin the fuel and nitrous together...and that will mess up a intake manifold bbbaadddd...im personally gettin like a 125 to 150 dry shot on my cobra
11-27-2005, 04:06 AM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: Dry or wet nitrous kit
First off, I'll correct myself. I didn't think over my post a second time before I posted it. I was thinking along the lines where if you are running a dry kit, you will have it retuned and will be running a little rich all of the time on your nitrous tune so when you hit the nitrous you don't lean out real bad for a second. The power loss isn't substantial, just a little, I shouldn't have mentioned it, and it is a situational thing.
Wet kits are more prone to a backfire because fuel is mixed with the nitrous and is sprayed in through the air intake. As long as the car is running and the RPMs stay up (don't fall back to idle) the air flow stays good and the fuel doesn't have the chance to pool up and the air flow helps to prevent an intake manifold destroying backfire. If you run nitrous, shut off the car, and immediately restart it, you're more likely to have a backfire.
And no you do not need to re-tune for a small shot of nitrous (up to 125) with a wet kit but you will still need to back off the timing. The wet kit mixes extra fuel with the nitrous so the computer does not need to change a thing. It will still see a good A/F ratio coming through the O2s and will not change anything. Dry kits don't mix fuel with the nitrous so a re-tune is more necessary than with a wet kit (although expect a smaller shot to be safe).
EDIT: Also, I could not find the factory test port (schrader valve), followed the fuel line up to the rail, back around to the other rail, saw the fuel rail pressure sensor, but outside of that I managed to find no place I could tap in so I cut the line before the regulator.
ORIGINAL: simpsvt97
i always heard dry kits are better for stockish motors..and wet kits are more likely to have a nitrous backfire since ur mixin the fuel and nitrous together...and that will mess up a intake manifold bbbaadddd...im personally gettin like a 125 to 150 dry shot on my cobra
i always heard dry kits are better for stockish motors..and wet kits are more likely to have a nitrous backfire since ur mixin the fuel and nitrous together...and that will mess up a intake manifold bbbaadddd...im personally gettin like a 125 to 150 dry shot on my cobra
And no you do not need to re-tune for a small shot of nitrous (up to 125) with a wet kit but you will still need to back off the timing. The wet kit mixes extra fuel with the nitrous so the computer does not need to change a thing. It will still see a good A/F ratio coming through the O2s and will not change anything. Dry kits don't mix fuel with the nitrous so a re-tune is more necessary than with a wet kit (although expect a smaller shot to be safe).
EDIT: Also, I could not find the factory test port (schrader valve), followed the fuel line up to the rail, back around to the other rail, saw the fuel rail pressure sensor, but outside of that I managed to find no place I could tap in so I cut the line before the regulator.
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