basic bolt ons?
I am going to be purchasing a mustang in the next few months and I figure I will have round 1.5K-2K left over after I buy the car. I am looking for a 1999-2000 Mustang GT so I am looking for some simple bolt ons that would increase performance for that year model. So maybe you could list some simple bolt ons for my car and some respectable companys that sell them. So far I think I might do these so tell me what you think and thanks for your help.
1. Long tube headers w/shorty h pipe
2. CAI
3. 4.10 or 3.73 gears
4. short throw shifter
5. lowering springs
1. Long tube headers w/shorty h pipe
2. CAI
3. 4.10 or 3.73 gears
4. short throw shifter
5. lowering springs
get the exhaust and FOR SURE GET 4.10's dont waste money on the 3.73's...also id recommend you buy the 4.10's predator tuner package from rpmoutlet.... its 469 shipped....saves you over 200 bucks buying them...steeda ud pulleys....and bbk TB/Plenum (i cant afford to pay the xtra for the accufab but you might)
Hey Boss,
Be sure to look up the parts you are after, allot of the CAI packages are for 02-04 (found out the hard way). There is a small change from 01 to 02 on the intake side. Not really major but I ordered a MAC CAI with built in 80mm and it did not have the hole for the Air Temp Sensore; actually had to drill one into the AEM, so reasearch the year you buy.
The mods I found the best were:
-3.73 are for sure. I have a stick and they say 3.73 for stick and 4.10 for automatics. Mine is still a daily driver and the 3.73's are perfect for eating up the street lights as well as high speeds on the freeway. With the stock 3.27 your going into 5th at like 95 and 2 grand lugging at that; how useless is that day to day. With the 3.73's I am making that shift at like 80-85 with strong RPM, and still have enough top end to hit speeds fast enough to scare off those street bikers that think they are so special, screwin with me just to back off at 115, chicken, heck I was just getting to the top end, lol.
-Upper and Lower control arms. This will kill that rear end wiggle that has almost killed us all. The stockers are designed with a natural bind, so Ford's answer.....REALLY SOFT BUSHINGS. Here's how I figured it out. You're passing some slow poke and that car appears in the oncoming lane; you pull a hard right merge to not kill the family of 4 and gues what, you merged but the whole butt end of the car keeps going. Soft bushings, the new arms typicly have a Poly or Nylon bushing that is fare more rigid then the stockers and will keep the *** end on the ground where it should be.
-I had a 98 GT with a Steeda Stage I and II system in it and let me tell you performance springs and shocks change the whole car. When the exit ramp sign said 35 you could hit 60-70 and not even back out of it, made myself car sick the first drive after install. The Steeda's were fixed rate and proved to be kind of harsh on ruff road, going with Eibach progressives and Koni this time. You will need Caster Camber Plates, and possibly offset rack mount bushings. We all know Poly bushings are better so I try to have the stockers replaced as items are installed, a little planning can maximize the labor time. A little hint: do the upper and lower control arms with the springs, they have to just about pull them out anyway; these were in my top ten of mods, it makes that much of a difference.
-PROGRAMMER.... You will need one to recalibrate for the gear change anyway. Get a good one, like SCT XCALIBRATOR 2. I ran a Jet and a Diablo chip/modual for a while and after the third time having the Diablo reprogrammed went to a Hypertech tuner (they could not get the Diablo programmed for oxygenated fuel here in San Diego, can you say pain in the ***...PING CITY), and I preferred the feeling of the tuner over the chip, hard to explain but I am sure someone out there can, you will see.
-CAI, and Exhaust these are standard > no need to go to nuts right off. Cat back and agood CAI are some of the best bang for your buck items, 2.5" minimum of coarse, from there it's all about what sound you want, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, it's all good. Be warned, the install time on headers just isn't worth the gain for me + in California I believe all long tubes are smog illegal and shorty's just aren’t enough gain to justify eating Hot Pockets for a month or two to pay for a 6 to 8 hour install. All mid pipes (X, H) are illegal but 1, the Magnaflow that you have to weld in behind Cats, which is just dumb if you ask me. Don't know where your at in the world, but I get to do the smog dodge every 2 years, lol. Luckily my exhaust shop doesn’t ask why I reinstall my Stock mid for a week every 2 years.
-You won't need a bigger MAF till bigger add-ons are made so no worries there, but a good CAI is important. The elbow style that places the filter in the fender with a 90 degree has been proven to distort the air flow. I have run both and the straight shot AEM Brute Force I am running now is noticeably better then the MAC. A 70mm throttle body peps it up to.
-Steeda TriAxe shifter - let's face it... a must; well if you want to hit 3rd anyway.
-Reinforce that frame!!!! Strut Tower brace, Sub Frame Connectors, if you want to go nuts check out that Kenny Brown Sub Frame Matrix.; not only does this keep you straight and hugged in the corners, it kills all those little squeaks and twists that cause noises.
-One word for you…. Ebay!
I have built several vehicles through the bay and it is the best way to maximize your budget. Also check out www.discounttiredirect.com In my local Discount Tire Store my BFG KDWS 295/40/17 were $225, the website had them for $152 with free shipping, saves you a bundle for good rubber, and if you drive like me then you know how required a quality tire is under you. Hammering down at 116 against some punk in a screaming rice burner on the freeway is not a good time to doubt the stability of your tires; you should be busy looking in the rear view at your latest victem who thought he was something special (next time try American, lol). If you couldn’t tell I recommend this to all Mustang owners, Ahhhhh Satisfaction, lol.
Hope that helps,
Have a kill day;
Be sure to look up the parts you are after, allot of the CAI packages are for 02-04 (found out the hard way). There is a small change from 01 to 02 on the intake side. Not really major but I ordered a MAC CAI with built in 80mm and it did not have the hole for the Air Temp Sensore; actually had to drill one into the AEM, so reasearch the year you buy.
The mods I found the best were:
-3.73 are for sure. I have a stick and they say 3.73 for stick and 4.10 for automatics. Mine is still a daily driver and the 3.73's are perfect for eating up the street lights as well as high speeds on the freeway. With the stock 3.27 your going into 5th at like 95 and 2 grand lugging at that; how useless is that day to day. With the 3.73's I am making that shift at like 80-85 with strong RPM, and still have enough top end to hit speeds fast enough to scare off those street bikers that think they are so special, screwin with me just to back off at 115, chicken, heck I was just getting to the top end, lol.
-Upper and Lower control arms. This will kill that rear end wiggle that has almost killed us all. The stockers are designed with a natural bind, so Ford's answer.....REALLY SOFT BUSHINGS. Here's how I figured it out. You're passing some slow poke and that car appears in the oncoming lane; you pull a hard right merge to not kill the family of 4 and gues what, you merged but the whole butt end of the car keeps going. Soft bushings, the new arms typicly have a Poly or Nylon bushing that is fare more rigid then the stockers and will keep the *** end on the ground where it should be.
-I had a 98 GT with a Steeda Stage I and II system in it and let me tell you performance springs and shocks change the whole car. When the exit ramp sign said 35 you could hit 60-70 and not even back out of it, made myself car sick the first drive after install. The Steeda's were fixed rate and proved to be kind of harsh on ruff road, going with Eibach progressives and Koni this time. You will need Caster Camber Plates, and possibly offset rack mount bushings. We all know Poly bushings are better so I try to have the stockers replaced as items are installed, a little planning can maximize the labor time. A little hint: do the upper and lower control arms with the springs, they have to just about pull them out anyway; these were in my top ten of mods, it makes that much of a difference.
-PROGRAMMER.... You will need one to recalibrate for the gear change anyway. Get a good one, like SCT XCALIBRATOR 2. I ran a Jet and a Diablo chip/modual for a while and after the third time having the Diablo reprogrammed went to a Hypertech tuner (they could not get the Diablo programmed for oxygenated fuel here in San Diego, can you say pain in the ***...PING CITY), and I preferred the feeling of the tuner over the chip, hard to explain but I am sure someone out there can, you will see.
-CAI, and Exhaust these are standard > no need to go to nuts right off. Cat back and agood CAI are some of the best bang for your buck items, 2.5" minimum of coarse, from there it's all about what sound you want, Flowmaster, Magnaflow, it's all good. Be warned, the install time on headers just isn't worth the gain for me + in California I believe all long tubes are smog illegal and shorty's just aren’t enough gain to justify eating Hot Pockets for a month or two to pay for a 6 to 8 hour install. All mid pipes (X, H) are illegal but 1, the Magnaflow that you have to weld in behind Cats, which is just dumb if you ask me. Don't know where your at in the world, but I get to do the smog dodge every 2 years, lol. Luckily my exhaust shop doesn’t ask why I reinstall my Stock mid for a week every 2 years.
-You won't need a bigger MAF till bigger add-ons are made so no worries there, but a good CAI is important. The elbow style that places the filter in the fender with a 90 degree has been proven to distort the air flow. I have run both and the straight shot AEM Brute Force I am running now is noticeably better then the MAC. A 70mm throttle body peps it up to.
-Steeda TriAxe shifter - let's face it... a must; well if you want to hit 3rd anyway.
-Reinforce that frame!!!! Strut Tower brace, Sub Frame Connectors, if you want to go nuts check out that Kenny Brown Sub Frame Matrix.; not only does this keep you straight and hugged in the corners, it kills all those little squeaks and twists that cause noises.
-One word for you…. Ebay!
I have built several vehicles through the bay and it is the best way to maximize your budget. Also check out www.discounttiredirect.com In my local Discount Tire Store my BFG KDWS 295/40/17 were $225, the website had them for $152 with free shipping, saves you a bundle for good rubber, and if you drive like me then you know how required a quality tire is under you. Hammering down at 116 against some punk in a screaming rice burner on the freeway is not a good time to doubt the stability of your tires; you should be busy looking in the rear view at your latest victem who thought he was something special (next time try American, lol). If you couldn’t tell I recommend this to all Mustang owners, Ahhhhh Satisfaction, lol.
Hope that helps,
Have a kill day;
ORIGINAL: da boss
I am going to be purchasing a mustang in the next few months and I figure I will have round 1.5K-2K left over after I buy the car. I am looking for a 1999-2000 Mustang GT so I am looking for some simple bolt ons that would increase performance for that year model. So maybe you could list some simple bolt ons for my car and some respectable companys that sell them. So far I think I might do these so tell me what you think and thanks for your help.
1. Long tube headers w/shorty h pipe
2. CAI
3. 4.10 or 3.73 gears
4. short throw shifter
5. lowering springs
I am going to be purchasing a mustang in the next few months and I figure I will have round 1.5K-2K left over after I buy the car. I am looking for a 1999-2000 Mustang GT so I am looking for some simple bolt ons that would increase performance for that year model. So maybe you could list some simple bolt ons for my car and some respectable companys that sell them. So far I think I might do these so tell me what you think and thanks for your help.
1. Long tube headers w/shorty h pipe
2. CAI
3. 4.10 or 3.73 gears
4. short throw shifter
5. lowering springs
ORIGINAL: da boss
I like the sound of the H pipes but then again i have never heard a x pipe
I like the sound of the H pipes but then again i have never heard a x pipe
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