cam question
I love the sound of a cammed car, and it makes me really want that lope. I know stage 2 will lope more than the 1's but I dont have enough cash to change valve springs too. How much would it cost to buy some VT or comp stage 1's and average install price total? ..... or if anyone knows what about stage 2 install with valve springs? (just incase I do have enough dough).....
Thanks
Thanks
Stage 1s will definitely be a lot cheaper than stage 2s, but you may regret it if your looking for the lope. I had Crower stage 2s, which are much milder than Vt stage 2s...they almost sound like a VT stage 1. Well I had them in for about two months and switched out to a stage 2 from VT cause the Vts sound so much better. Either way tho, the gains will be moderate for a stage 1....
Hmm I see, I will do some research. Cams are mainly for pulling harder and for a longer time in the higher rpm band correct? So that means I will lose power down low?
A camshaft is something you really need to understand before selecting one. If you don't, get a pro to help. You don't normally just slap in a "big cam" (whatever that is) and go fast. It's all in the combo of parts. They all need to match.Lope normally comes from overlap, which decreases cylinder pressure, requiring more compression to run correctly. It's designed to improve high-RPM flow, but itkills low end powerby its nature. This is where variable valve timing is such a big deal. You can have the best of both worlds.
Enough cam talk. If you need to learn about cams, there's not enough space here to explain it all.
i have vt stage one cams and couldn't be any happier. has a nice loppy idle and yes it looses a little down low but after 3,000 you just start to feel it pull harder and harder and able to rev much higher in the rpm band . instead of dieing off around 5,500 rpm. theypull all the way to 6-6200 rpmstrong.
I suppose I do need to do a lot of research, there is a bunch of mechanical stuff I need to get down.
Is 600 extra rpm to pull really anything? I mean how hard can you push a redline in a Mustang before stuff starts going wrong? Even though it pulls up high harder, wont you still hit the rev limiter?
Is 600 extra rpm to pull really anything? I mean how hard can you push a redline in a Mustang before stuff starts going wrong? Even though it pulls up high harder, wont you still hit the rev limiter?
ORIGINAL: 1fast 99gt
$700 for the cams and i got priced at $800 for the install plus a tune for $500. Not shure its worth it.
$700 for the cams and i got priced at $800 for the install plus a tune for $500. Not shure its worth it.
I paid around 1700 all said and done, that was cams, springs, install, and tune/dyno + a new chip to tune it on. IMO I got raped a bit, coulda been lower.
BTW, the stage 1 cams should not loose signficant amounts of TQ. I lost about 10 ft/lbs with my 2s, but that was mainly because of a craptastic tune from my (then) craptastic shop. With the proper tune neither should loose alot.
The car will pull right ot redline instead of falling off hard around 5500 RPM. I picked up 30 WHP at redline, and moved the peak from around 5400 to around 5600 (and it only lost another 3-5 WHP from there to 6200 RPM). before the car would start falling on its face at 5500, with a 30+ WHP drop from 5400 to 6200 RPM.
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