ORIGINAL: ben790450

DO NOT put stage 2 cams in unless you have headwork done. End of story.

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6

I ran stage 2s on a n/a car with a stock engine otherwise ( springs and cams). There simply is not that much difference between a stage 1 and stage 2 cam.

The 1 will pick up more power down low, but it will not make the same peak power as a 2, and it won't make as much at redline. The 2 will sacrifice a bit down low, but up top it will make more.

I only picked up about 14 WHP peak from teh stage 2s... but I picked up 30 WHP at redline, and that was with a total joke of a tune. I am sure with proper tuning the car would have made somewhere around 285 WHP (boltons/cams) and 300 ft/lbs.

Simply put, the stage 1 and stage 2 cams are very similar, and neither is going to have a clear advantage over the other. The valvesprings that go with the 2s do cost you a bit of power.. but its made up by the more agressive cam. IMO if your on a full boltons car and you can handle the more agressive lope of the 2s then do em... headwork or not.

ORIGINAL: 1BAD3V
Thanks for that bit of info man. I think I'm gonna stick with the stage 2 heads and cams. And since I'm an auto do I really need some 3.73 or 4.10 gears and a stall converter?

ORIGINAL: BleedinBlue

I'm not sure on how the gears and stall relate to the heads/cams, BUT, if you are going as far as h/c's, why wouldn't you go as far as gears and stall? I'd almost guess that the gears and stall would be more beneficial for your ET than the heads and cams.