with the mods I have plus a pi intake what would be the best cam set up for my npi heads? I've herd Romeo PI and VT stage 2 mentioned I plan on having heads ported and polished also. Looking for sick power and mean idle.

 

Hey. Sorry this isnt about the cams but i noticed you had the FRPP Aluminum Driveshaft... how do you like it? could you tell a difference?

 

if your going with vt, stage 1 with stock heads and stage 2 with headwork, give scott at vt a call and he'll help you out.

 

I always say get custom cams from MPH. They'll cost the same as off the shelf cams but they are made for YOUR setup and with what you what out of a cam in mind.

 

THANK YOU!!!!

I've been preaching that exact same thing for months!!!!

 

Lol everyone with Cam questions need to just call places and see what they say. We are all running differant things on here and have differances in opinions.

 

I just looked up the Specs on Stage 1 and 2 comp cams. THEY ONLY differance is the Intake and Exhaust Duration. The Lobe seperation is the same and so is the Lift. So why couldnt you run a stage 2 on stock heads with a better flowing intake manifold and full exhaust??? I want to hear some responses on this.

 

Ok you called me out so here i go.

Becuase my friend the intake manifold and the exhaust IS NOT the restriction on a 4.6. Its the heads. You could have 4" runners on your intake manifold and 5" exhaust from the engine back and you still would have shiit for flow. Your heads are the bottle neck. Im going to use my straw analagy once again to explain this. If you have a tiny straw and you increase to big pieces of staws on both ends you arent really gonna flow more air. . . . You can blow through that straw (supercharging) but the static pressure is gonna be a b*tch and you still have that restriction. The only way to get past that restriction is to get a bigger straw in place of the little straw. Your heads are that straw. Before i became a firefighter i was an HVAC tech for 6 years. . . so i did nothing but take classes on air flow and air physic and thermodynamics. But its simple. Everyone knows that our stock heads suck on these cars. Thats why they made the 4v. To bypass the shiity 2v heads. The only way to get past the REAL restriction on 2v 4.6 modular motors is to replace the heads. End of story. Supercharging wont get past that restriction it'll just increase the static pressure of the shiity straw. You want real results ppl then change your heads and THEN supercharge. Ok well that was a tangit but still. You CAN run stage 2 cams on stock heads. But its a really dumb idea becuase the cams are requiring more air and fuel . . . and the engine CAN'T deliver that air. . .

 

So there is nothing to do except change heads huh? What about the patriot performance stage 2 heads anybody have them?
As far as the drive shaft goes yes I could tell a dif. less spinning weight = more power whenI redo my tranny and clutch I'mputting in a alumfly wheel free up ponies there also.

 

This is completely and totally inaccurate. Not only are there pretty significant gains to be had from cams on a n/a car (both stage 1 and stage 2) but there are MAJOR gains to be had with a cam on a FI car. And saying that supercharging a 2v won't make up for the restrictive heads... I just don't even know what to say. I guess adding 140 WHP with nothing more than 10 PSI of boost doesn't make up for it?!?!?!

I am making, on average, about 30 more WHP than a boltons only/10 PSI vortech car. THIRTY horsepower from a stage 2 N/A camalone on a blower car with stockheads. A N/A cam! Not only that, but the car is tuned VERY conservative, something like 11.4:1 a/f ratio. With a simple plug in of the SCT I guarente theres another 10-15+ WHP in it.

Not only that, but I made something like 20 peak horsepower and 30 horsepower at redlinebefore the blower,comparingjust boltons to boltons + cams. And that was with a TOTAL **** tune from a shop that had absolutly NO idea what they were doing when tuning a mod motor.

You keep repeating that its dumb to run a stage 2 on stock heads, and you are still wrong. You do NOT have to do any headwork to run a stage 2 cam. I guarentee you if I could find and post 10 different dyno sheets, 5 with stage 1 and 5 with stage 2 cams, all on stock heads, you could not tell a signifcant difference (aka point them all out accuratly).

The stage 2 cams are not that much more agressive than the 1s. The head flow is not the major problem with going with a stage 2 cam... the problem is that the engine cannot support the FULL rpm potential of the stage 2 cams... but it still makes much more power than a stock cam, and slightly more peak/redline power than a stage 1 cam. The only advantage to going with a stage 1 cam is that it will lose less TQ down low (about 5 ft/lbs) and it will start picking up horsepower maybe 200-400 RPM before a stage 2 cam.


Edit; Another nail in the coffin?? MPH has SEVERAL 550 plus WHP cars with STOCK heads and stock intake, just a aftermarket shortblock + custom ground cams + boltons (and a blower). The best one I have seen so far had a Novi 2000 with a custom FMIC making 60x to the tire on the stock heads/intake manifold.

The heads aren't anything to write home about, but you can get around spending 1300+ bucks on them with the right setup. Not only that, but if it comes down to changing out the heads or the cams on a boltons only car, I am all for the cams all the way. Your going to see gains of maybe 20-25 WHP with a set of cams on a bolton only car, maybe 280-290 WHP. The most I have ever seen on a ported heads/cams/boltons car was in the 310 range. 20 horsepower isn't worth 1400+ bucks plus install plus gaskets and other crap. Without changing the cams at the same time I doubt you would make even 20 WHP with just heads.

Why is this all true? because even with the best ported 2v PI head you can buy your still only flowing around 230ish CFM. If they could make a 300 CFM@.600 lift head for the 2v then we would be talking... but they can't/don't. Simply put, even the ported 2v heads flow like **** compared to a good aftermarket head for almost any other engine.

I tell you the best part... the first thing the guy that owns the dyno shop I used said after my first run was, and I am quoting here, "Man, that blower REALLY loves them cams".