mac LT's w/ borla catback

 

I paid around $550ish to have my longtubes put on by a dealership where I live. I paid a little more than some people pay, but it was the shop I had the most trust in.

 

Mac or BBK... I was going for standard but now I want ceramic.

 

If you have all day and some help you can do your own headders, I put bbk lt on and it took a long time and what a pain in the *** it was, I would pay someone to do it if I ever did it again. Good luck.

 

The only thing Im worried about now is the clearance probelems. I have a lowered car, do you think Ill have to put thestock springs back in?

 

LMAO!!! I'll tell you what. If anyone does a write up on installing LT's I wanna shake their hand because they are so frustrating it makes me not want to even reply....lol Ofcourse I installed them on my '96 cobra motor which is so much tighter than the 2v's. I suppose the hardest part was the fact that I made the big mistake of using stage 8 locking header bolts. Try to hold the retainer in place and then snap another clip over the top of that when you can only fit two fingers to the bolt in the first place!!! It took me 7 hours just to get all the bolts in, tightened down and the locking retainers on. I had to redo them because I left the retainers off because I was so frustrated with tightening the bolts up the first time. They all loosened up after 100miles.
If you do install them just use the factory header studs. If they are too rusted just buy new ones from Ford. They will work best! It's very tough to make sure your not stripping the threads on a regular bolt when you cannot see what you are doing.
Overall I could do a LT install from start to finish on a 2v mustang in less than 4 hours granted none of the manifold bolts break off which could delay several hours obviously. Spray some Penetrating oil on ALL of the threads you would be taking nuts and bolts off of a few days before you do the project. Drive the car normal (may smoke sligthly for a few minutes) Then spray again the day before and those suckers will come right off. The heat works the P-oil right in and breaks the rust apart. I guess I could have done a write up by now....lol

24mm wrench to loosen up the motor mounts. Take the starter off (it can be put on entirely after the header is bolted up solid..as they say it cannot) Steering shaft needs to be finangled around so you can get the driver header up in. It's only one bolt that hold it on. I used my cherry picker to lift each side of the motor I was working on, but you can use a piece of wood and a jack on the a/c compressor (pass side) and the power steering pump (driver side) for jacking points. You must remove both motor mount bolts before you begin to lift either side of the motor. Believe it or not, that's about all the strain there is other than getting your old exhaust out! Not really that bad. But make sure you pur Anti-sieze on every bolt you toush just incase things have to come back apart later on. I had to take my stuff back off (shorty stuff before the Lt's) and it came off with ease. I had a grin from ear to ear eating my cheese and crackers spinning the bolts with one hand instead of using the wrench the whole time!...lol

CLEARANCE ISSUES!!! There aren't any. I have BBK LT's and they are actually higher than my aftermarket MAC shorty header and x-pipe! I have MORE clearance. I was amazed. I have 1.5" lowered up front. The lowest part on out car is on the passenger side muffler. Mine is like 3" off the ground which has Nothing to do with header style. I have Magnapacks and that's the way they fit I guess. My boys is the same way!