What happened to ym gear thread
03-09-2008, 02:22 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,151
What happened to ym gear thread
As some of you know I did a write up on my opinion between 3.73s and 4.10s. It was stickied and now it's like fallen off the face of the earth(looks like it was deleted). Perhaps somebody didn't agree with it but damn a delete makes me a sad panda
03-09-2008, 02:44 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,797
RE: What happened to my gear thread
Ok smartass[8D] here's your post. I think the section in question is the Drag racing part, and specifically the bold text. I have quite a bit more power than stock, and on 26in tires, I can get down the track quite well, and trap 100+ mph. Just b/c you have to shift to 4th, doesn't mean you're gonna lose the race.
ORIGINAL: Quick Shot xMLx
This is for a 5 speed car (3650 but T-45 people should read too). Hopefully this can put an end to gear questions.
With all the recent gear threads, I decided to do a personal write up on 3.73s vs. 4.10s. While this is my opinion I consider it the truth even from an objective point of view. To start off I have 4.10s in my car and I run a 28†tall tire (vs. the 26†regular) to at and from the track (reduces my gear to a 3.73). I’ll try to touch on the most popular subjects.
Brand: Motive vs. FRPP. It’s been stated often times that they are both made by the same manufacturer but who knows If this is truly correct. I personally run FRPP and I have no whine, countless have ran Motives (people I know personally) and no whine at all. Whine results from improper installation and don’t let your mechanic tell you otherwise.
Gas Mileage: Another often spoke about topic. With the stock 3.27s, 4.10s and 28†tire (3.73s) I usually average about 18 mpg in all city driving with all 3 setups(I’ve had this car for almost 2 years now). The 4.10s on the highway average about 1-2 mpg at worst vs. the stock gears. Gas mileage isn’t affected much at all, the only thing that changes is your throttle response. With the more aggressive gear you can run your car out a bit more often and hear the “sweet exhaust.†Believe it or not that’s why your MPG has gotten worst, because you rev the car more now.
Street Driving: 3.27s are absolutely anemic for street driving and I highly recommend anyone to throw them away. Even with 4.10 gears I don’t have a traction problem with the car NA off the line (I run 275/35/18s, close to what most of you have). The 3.73s may not be as fun in an NA car but I will get to that later on. 4.10s max out your 4th gear at 110 mph, 3.73s around 120 and stock ratio around 130, remember those numbers because they should affect your purchase. If you street race none of that should affect you, unless you do 100 mph rolls every day.
Drag Strip: This is where the “right†choice becomes apparent. I will put this as plain as possible, if you ever plan to make much more power than stock(insert S/C and 75+ shots) I DO NOT RECOMMEND 4.10s. Any basic bolt on car with an S/C or nitrous will trap mid 80s+ in the 1/8th mile and low-mid 110s+ in the 1/4th mile. This is where the 4.10s are a problem. It’s basically common knowledge that the more you shift the more potential time you lose, especially if you shift and 1 second later the race is over.
1/8th mile: With 4.10s your 3rd gear maxes out at 80 mph with a 26†tall tire(what 99% of us run). You can run the gear out to about 82ish so all NA cars (unless you have ported heads+cams+sick bottom end) are fine with 4.10s in the 1/8th and they will maximize your time (vs. 3.73s). If you make more power than stock though, you WILL have to shift into 4th, lose about 3 mph+ on your trap and waste time.
1/4th mile: Same dilemma with the 1/8th mile except in 4th gear now. Any competent car with a power adder will trap at the very least low 110s. 4th gear with 4.10s maxes out at 110 vs. about 118-120 on 3.73s. Again by having to either bounce of the rev limiter or shift into 5th you are losing valuable time.
Alternatives: Many like myself will end up getting a 28†tall tire with the 4.10s after we realize our “mistake.†While this is a valid option it does come with its downfalls. With the 28â€s on you won’t be able to lower the back of your car. That 2-3†drop that would surely look good is out of the question now. Also I don’t pretend to be a physics major but more rotational mass will lower your times (perhaps not by much but it still does) as does the added tire weight.
Break In Period: Some may argue that they require no wear in period, I know I was banging gears like 15 miles down the road. That said 200 miles is often considered the "break in" period. Rather be safe than sorry I suppose.
Conclusion: For those who are too lazy I will recap what I said into a few lines. If you ever decide to add an SC/Nitrous/Turbo/Built NA motor to your car and ever visit a drag strip, I highly recommend the 3.73 gears. If you plan on forever keeping the car basically stock(bolt ons and such) the 4.10s will maximize your efficiency.
This is for a 5 speed car (3650 but T-45 people should read too). Hopefully this can put an end to gear questions.
With all the recent gear threads, I decided to do a personal write up on 3.73s vs. 4.10s. While this is my opinion I consider it the truth even from an objective point of view. To start off I have 4.10s in my car and I run a 28†tall tire (vs. the 26†regular) to at and from the track (reduces my gear to a 3.73). I’ll try to touch on the most popular subjects.
Brand: Motive vs. FRPP. It’s been stated often times that they are both made by the same manufacturer but who knows If this is truly correct. I personally run FRPP and I have no whine, countless have ran Motives (people I know personally) and no whine at all. Whine results from improper installation and don’t let your mechanic tell you otherwise.
Gas Mileage: Another often spoke about topic. With the stock 3.27s, 4.10s and 28†tire (3.73s) I usually average about 18 mpg in all city driving with all 3 setups(I’ve had this car for almost 2 years now). The 4.10s on the highway average about 1-2 mpg at worst vs. the stock gears. Gas mileage isn’t affected much at all, the only thing that changes is your throttle response. With the more aggressive gear you can run your car out a bit more often and hear the “sweet exhaust.†Believe it or not that’s why your MPG has gotten worst, because you rev the car more now.
Street Driving: 3.27s are absolutely anemic for street driving and I highly recommend anyone to throw them away. Even with 4.10 gears I don’t have a traction problem with the car NA off the line (I run 275/35/18s, close to what most of you have). The 3.73s may not be as fun in an NA car but I will get to that later on. 4.10s max out your 4th gear at 110 mph, 3.73s around 120 and stock ratio around 130, remember those numbers because they should affect your purchase. If you street race none of that should affect you, unless you do 100 mph rolls every day.
Drag Strip: This is where the “right†choice becomes apparent. I will put this as plain as possible, if you ever plan to make much more power than stock(insert S/C and 75+ shots) I DO NOT RECOMMEND 4.10s. Any basic bolt on car with an S/C or nitrous will trap mid 80s+ in the 1/8th mile and low-mid 110s+ in the 1/4th mile. This is where the 4.10s are a problem. It’s basically common knowledge that the more you shift the more potential time you lose, especially if you shift and 1 second later the race is over.
1/8th mile: With 4.10s your 3rd gear maxes out at 80 mph with a 26†tall tire(what 99% of us run). You can run the gear out to about 82ish so all NA cars (unless you have ported heads+cams+sick bottom end) are fine with 4.10s in the 1/8th and they will maximize your time (vs. 3.73s). If you make more power than stock though, you WILL have to shift into 4th, lose about 3 mph+ on your trap and waste time.
1/4th mile: Same dilemma with the 1/8th mile except in 4th gear now. Any competent car with a power adder will trap at the very least low 110s. 4th gear with 4.10s maxes out at 110 vs. about 118-120 on 3.73s. Again by having to either bounce of the rev limiter or shift into 5th you are losing valuable time.
Alternatives: Many like myself will end up getting a 28†tall tire with the 4.10s after we realize our “mistake.†While this is a valid option it does come with its downfalls. With the 28â€s on you won’t be able to lower the back of your car. That 2-3†drop that would surely look good is out of the question now. Also I don’t pretend to be a physics major but more rotational mass will lower your times (perhaps not by much but it still does) as does the added tire weight.
Break In Period: Some may argue that they require no wear in period, I know I was banging gears like 15 miles down the road. That said 200 miles is often considered the "break in" period. Rather be safe than sorry I suppose.
Conclusion: For those who are too lazy I will recap what I said into a few lines. If you ever decide to add an SC/Nitrous/Turbo/Built NA motor to your car and ever visit a drag strip, I highly recommend the 3.73 gears. If you plan on forever keeping the car basically stock(bolt ons and such) the 4.10s will maximize your efficiency.
03-09-2008, 03:00 PM
#8
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,151
RE: What happened to my gear thread
Ah that's cool. I can't get over like 112 on 275/35/18s though. Oh well maybe my speedo isn't calibrated spot on. Don't really care
[&:][8D]
On a super off topic note I'm out for a while going to go wash the car. Might see if I can throw up some new pictures after that
[&:][8D]On a super off topic note I'm out for a while going to go wash the car. Might see if I can throw up some new pictures after that
03-09-2008, 06:14 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location:
Posts: 1,860
RE: What happened to my gear thread
ORIGINAL: ZW99GT
Ok smartass[8D] here's your post. I think the section in question is the Drag racing part, and specifically the bold text. I have quite a bit more power than stock, and on 26in tires, I can get down the track quite well, and trap 100+ mph. Just b/c you have to shift to 4th, doesn't mean you're gonna lose the race.
Ok smartass[8D] here's your post. I think the section in question is the Drag racing part, and specifically the bold text. I have quite a bit more power than stock, and on 26in tires, I can get down the track quite well, and trap 100+ mph. Just b/c you have to shift to 4th, doesn't mean you're gonna lose the race.
ORIGINAL: Quick Shot xMLx
This is for a 5 speed car (3650 but T-45 people should read too). Hopefully this can put an end to gear questions.
With all the recent gear threads, I decided to do a personal write up on 3.73s vs. 4.10s. While this is my opinion I consider it the truth even from an objective point of view. To start off I have 4.10s in my car and I run a 28†tall tire (vs. the 26†regular) to at and from the track (reduces my gear to a 3.73). I’ll try to touch on the most popular subjects.
Brand: Motive vs. FRPP. It’s been stated often times that they are both made by the same manufacturer but who knows If this is truly correct. I personally run FRPP and I have no whine, countless have ran Motives (people I know personally) and no whine at all. Whine results from improper installation and don’t let your mechanic tell you otherwise.
Gas Mileage: Another often spoke about topic. With the stock 3.27s, 4.10s and 28†tire (3.73s) I usually average about 18 mpg in all city driving with all 3 setups(I’ve had this car for almost 2 years now). The 4.10s on the highway average about 1-2 mpg at worst vs. the stock gears. Gas mileage isn’t affected much at all, the only thing that changes is your throttle response. With the more aggressive gear you can run your car out a bit more often and hear the “sweet exhaust.†Believe it or not that’s why your MPG has gotten worst, because you rev the car more now.
Street Driving: 3.27s are absolutely anemic for street driving and I highly recommend anyone to throw them away. Even with 4.10 gears I don’t have a traction problem with the car NA off the line (I run 275/35/18s, close to what most of you have). The 3.73s may not be as fun in an NA car but I will get to that later on. 4.10s max out your 4th gear at 110 mph, 3.73s around 120 and stock ratio around 130, remember those numbers because they should affect your purchase. If you street race none of that should affect you, unless you do 100 mph rolls every day.
Drag Strip: This is where the “right†choice becomes apparent. I will put this as plain as possible, if you ever plan to make much more power than stock(insert S/C and 75+ shots) I DO NOT RECOMMEND 4.10s. Any basic bolt on car with an S/C or nitrous will trap mid 80s+ in the 1/8th mile and low-mid 110s+ in the 1/4th mile. This is where the 4.10s are a problem. It’s basically common knowledge that the more you shift the more potential time you lose, especially if you shift and 1 second later the race is over.
1/8th mile: With 4.10s your 3rd gear maxes out at 80 mph with a 26†tall tire(what 99% of us run). You can run the gear out to about 82ish so all NA cars (unless you have ported heads+cams+sick bottom end) are fine with 4.10s in the 1/8th and they will maximize your time (vs. 3.73s). If you make more power than stock though, you WILL have to shift into 4th, lose about 3 mph+ on your trap and waste time.
1/4th mile: Same dilemma with the 1/8th mile except in 4th gear now. Any competent car with a power adder will trap at the very least low 110s. 4th gear with 4.10s maxes out at 110 vs. about 118-120 on 3.73s. Again by having to either bounce of the rev limiter or shift into 5th you are losing valuable time.
Alternatives: Many like myself will end up getting a 28†tall tire with the 4.10s after we realize our “mistake.†While this is a valid option it does come with its downfalls. With the 28â€s on you won’t be able to lower the back of your car. That 2-3†drop that would surely look good is out of the question now. Also I don’t pretend to be a physics major but more rotational mass will lower your times (perhaps not by much but it still does) as does the added tire weight.
Break In Period: Some may argue that they require no wear in period, I know I was banging gears like 15 miles down the road. That said 200 miles is often considered the "break in" period. Rather be safe than sorry I suppose.
Conclusion: For those who are too lazy I will recap what I said into a few lines. If you ever decide to add an SC/Nitrous/Turbo/Built NA motor to your car and ever visit a drag strip, I highly recommend the 3.73 gears. If you plan on forever keeping the car basically stock(bolt ons and such) the 4.10s will maximize your efficiency.
This is for a 5 speed car (3650 but T-45 people should read too). Hopefully this can put an end to gear questions.
With all the recent gear threads, I decided to do a personal write up on 3.73s vs. 4.10s. While this is my opinion I consider it the truth even from an objective point of view. To start off I have 4.10s in my car and I run a 28†tall tire (vs. the 26†regular) to at and from the track (reduces my gear to a 3.73). I’ll try to touch on the most popular subjects.
Brand: Motive vs. FRPP. It’s been stated often times that they are both made by the same manufacturer but who knows If this is truly correct. I personally run FRPP and I have no whine, countless have ran Motives (people I know personally) and no whine at all. Whine results from improper installation and don’t let your mechanic tell you otherwise.
Gas Mileage: Another often spoke about topic. With the stock 3.27s, 4.10s and 28†tire (3.73s) I usually average about 18 mpg in all city driving with all 3 setups(I’ve had this car for almost 2 years now). The 4.10s on the highway average about 1-2 mpg at worst vs. the stock gears. Gas mileage isn’t affected much at all, the only thing that changes is your throttle response. With the more aggressive gear you can run your car out a bit more often and hear the “sweet exhaust.†Believe it or not that’s why your MPG has gotten worst, because you rev the car more now.
Street Driving: 3.27s are absolutely anemic for street driving and I highly recommend anyone to throw them away. Even with 4.10 gears I don’t have a traction problem with the car NA off the line (I run 275/35/18s, close to what most of you have). The 3.73s may not be as fun in an NA car but I will get to that later on. 4.10s max out your 4th gear at 110 mph, 3.73s around 120 and stock ratio around 130, remember those numbers because they should affect your purchase. If you street race none of that should affect you, unless you do 100 mph rolls every day.
Drag Strip: This is where the “right†choice becomes apparent. I will put this as plain as possible, if you ever plan to make much more power than stock(insert S/C and 75+ shots) I DO NOT RECOMMEND 4.10s. Any basic bolt on car with an S/C or nitrous will trap mid 80s+ in the 1/8th mile and low-mid 110s+ in the 1/4th mile. This is where the 4.10s are a problem. It’s basically common knowledge that the more you shift the more potential time you lose, especially if you shift and 1 second later the race is over.
1/8th mile: With 4.10s your 3rd gear maxes out at 80 mph with a 26†tall tire(what 99% of us run). You can run the gear out to about 82ish so all NA cars (unless you have ported heads+cams+sick bottom end) are fine with 4.10s in the 1/8th and they will maximize your time (vs. 3.73s). If you make more power than stock though, you WILL have to shift into 4th, lose about 3 mph+ on your trap and waste time.
1/4th mile: Same dilemma with the 1/8th mile except in 4th gear now. Any competent car with a power adder will trap at the very least low 110s. 4th gear with 4.10s maxes out at 110 vs. about 118-120 on 3.73s. Again by having to either bounce of the rev limiter or shift into 5th you are losing valuable time.
Alternatives: Many like myself will end up getting a 28†tall tire with the 4.10s after we realize our “mistake.†While this is a valid option it does come with its downfalls. With the 28â€s on you won’t be able to lower the back of your car. That 2-3†drop that would surely look good is out of the question now. Also I don’t pretend to be a physics major but more rotational mass will lower your times (perhaps not by much but it still does) as does the added tire weight.
Break In Period: Some may argue that they require no wear in period, I know I was banging gears like 15 miles down the road. That said 200 miles is often considered the "break in" period. Rather be safe than sorry I suppose.
Conclusion: For those who are too lazy I will recap what I said into a few lines. If you ever decide to add an SC/Nitrous/Turbo/Built NA motor to your car and ever visit a drag strip, I highly recommend the 3.73 gears. If you plan on forever keeping the car basically stock(bolt ons and such) the 4.10s will maximize your efficiency.
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