flowtech longtube headers
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,860
From:
Sorry, personal experience here, on my car and one of my really good friends'. FlowCRAP is junk. Absolute, total, without exception JUNK. They never completely seal (2-piece construction on the driver's side), the flanges are scrap, the fitment is worthless, and the install is worse than a 1-piece. Save your money. I DO speak from personal experience here... I had the engine jacked up, the K-member out, and STILL couldn't get the things to fit right. I ended up having to throw the OEM exhaust back on, and take it to a shop. Thank God my mechanic is as much of a stand up guy as he is, because I paid for a 4-hour install... took him almost 10. My buddy, with the 'new style' Flowtechs, has had much the same problem I have, WITH Stage 8 bolts. When I do my motor swap this winter, I'm thinking about springing for the SLP stainless setup, otherwise I'm probably going BBK. These pieces of junk don't seal. Period. I've tried all kinds of high-temp sealants, and my buddy is going to try V-band clamps, but it's just unreal how poorly everything fits together.
1st Gear Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 105
From: lubbock TX
i got a set of pacesetters put on last week ceramic coated for 30 bucks more than macs and it has a one piece flange that goes on the engine making them easier to install , i feel a bit more torque down low for sure now...my mechanic said they are way better quality guage metal than bbk or mac...and resemble hooker
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,786
From: Virginia
Sounds like you'd have trouble with any long tube header install. Did you install the headers per the instructions and use hi-temp RTV? The installation sequence is very important for proper sealing. Mine are fine and I'd buy them again. I've heard some people have trouble with every brand header on the market. Maybe it's just luck.
People (including me) have been using the RTV route for decades and it mostly work but it's a bandage for a bigger problem. Two surfaces that have a completely flat plain actually don't need a gasket. (that's perfect world, or a stock LT1 Exhaust M. on my old Caprice) If it takes RTV to seal up and make up the difference in matting gaps then there's a structural design flaw. Cheap headers although designed well or in "Copy Cat" form of a more expensive part uses Thinner/Cheaper steel, crappier welds and IMO less quality control. Which leads to warping and in conditions as small as a warm garage.
If you don't believe me buy a cheap set. Take one header in the house and keep one in the garage and take some measurements after 12hrs. If they where as good a part as the more expensive part, then they'd be more expensive.
We're not talking about Name brand vs Off brand cereals here.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 51
From: Arizona
they were on my 1990 fullsize bronco with a 351W. and im not badmouthing hooker at all, i havent had any experience with hooker, but flowtech does suck and i dont want any of you to have to go through the down time i had to with my truck because of those god forsaken pieces of scrap metal.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,860
From:
they were on my 1990 fullsize bronco with a 351W. and im not badmouthing hooker at all, i havent had any experience with hooker, but flowtech does suck and i dont want any of you to have to go through the down time i had to with my truck because of those god forsaken pieces of scrap metal.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,860
From:
People (including me) have been using the RTV route for decades and it mostly work but it's a bandage for a bigger problem. Two surfaces that have a completely flat plain actually don't need a gasket. (that's perfect world, or a stock LT1 Exhaust M. on my old Caprice) If it takes RTV to seal up and make up the difference in matting gaps then there's a structural design flaw. Cheap headers although designed well or in "Copy Cat" form of a more expensive part uses Thinner/Cheaper steel, crappier welds and IMO less quality control. Which leads to warping and in conditions as small as a warm garage.
If you don't believe me buy a cheap set. Take one header in the house and keep one in the garage and take some measurements after 12hrs. If they where as good a part as the more expensive part, then they'd be more expensive.
We're not talking about Name brand vs Off brand cereals here.
If you don't believe me buy a cheap set. Take one header in the house and keep one in the garage and take some measurements after 12hrs. If they where as good a part as the more expensive part, then they'd be more expensive.
We're not talking about Name brand vs Off brand cereals here.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,786
From: Virginia
It was about 1 year ago for Flowtechs. But the point isn't weather or not yours worked or my buddies worked it's the risk you take by buying cheaper parts made with less quality material and workmanship.
As far as the more expensive Hookers, I have not used them on this application so i cant say they are good or bad.
Every piece of steal produced has a rating. That rating is based on the quality and purity or density of that metal. Machinist would refer to these certs for their tool steel. Now headers don't require a very highly rated metal to begin with but when you start getting in the "cheap" prices they can only be using cheaper materials because the manufacturing process for the most part would be semi automated and universal. QA/QC is he other area where they can fall short on and be able to cut cost. Both scenarios leave a error probability higher than the better Headers.
When using scrap metal (Metal with no certs or ISO associated for transfer) you could have one tube that was made in china for general purpose and another that's used for higher quality machine work that is denser and better. Welding these two metals together to form one new unit can lead to varying results.
I'm not saying that EVERY cheap header is going to be crap but why would you risk problems unless you don't mind redoing work over again. Redundancy....
As far as the more expensive Hookers, I have not used them on this application so i cant say they are good or bad.
Every piece of steal produced has a rating. That rating is based on the quality and purity or density of that metal. Machinist would refer to these certs for their tool steel. Now headers don't require a very highly rated metal to begin with but when you start getting in the "cheap" prices they can only be using cheaper materials because the manufacturing process for the most part would be semi automated and universal. QA/QC is he other area where they can fall short on and be able to cut cost. Both scenarios leave a error probability higher than the better Headers.
When using scrap metal (Metal with no certs or ISO associated for transfer) you could have one tube that was made in china for general purpose and another that's used for higher quality machine work that is denser and better. Welding these two metals together to form one new unit can lead to varying results.
I'm not saying that EVERY cheap header is going to be crap but why would you risk problems unless you don't mind redoing work over again. Redundancy....
