4.6L General Discussion This section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.

Suspension

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Old Nov 4, 2008 | 12:51 AM
  #11  
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Perf_white_GT
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gears + tires = much faster

btw for future reference you never want to attempt to go fast on a budget... that will only lead to problems that can only be corrected by.... more money...
Old Nov 4, 2008 | 07:46 AM
  #12  
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yea, and i dont do anything halfa$$ed either. i only like the highest quality parts and i that stuff aint cheap. lol and which would hook better, nitto's on stock wheels or mickey thompsons on 18 inch wheels???
Old Nov 4, 2008 | 09:14 AM
  #13  
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I agree totally with ZW, suspension can help a ton, but the tire will make the biggest difference in the traction department. If I were you I would put some M/T radials on those stockers.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 12:42 AM
  #14  
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yea gears and tires really get you moving on the track, im full bolt-on, tuned on stock suspension, stock gears and DR's and runnin 13.0 so 12's are possible without a blower, nitrous or suspension setups.....
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 05:51 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 03BlackGT
yea gears and tires really get you moving on the track, im full bolt-on, tuned on stock suspension, stock gears and DR's and runnin 13.0 so 12's are possible without a blower, nitrous or suspension setups.....
+1 I'm running 13.0's with mickey thompson radials, stock gears, and stock suspension except for some springs that actually hurt me.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #16  
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Drag radials and gears are definately the way to go, they're next on my list of to do's. Just something to think about though, your pic looks like you have a convertible. I'm not positive, but I think the number is 13.5 where NHRA specs a rollbar for verts. I'm not positive if that's the number, and I don't know how strict most tracks are about it, but with radials and gears, you might be close if not there.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 08:36 PM
  #17  
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i think i might as well just get rid of the vert and get a hardtop if thats the rules. lol and maybe while im at it, just upgrade to like a 98 cobra or something because i really dont want to put a cage in a 13 second car. i mean i can see if you are hitting mid low 12's like a termie or something like that that there would probably be a need for a cage but i think thats stupid to need a cage at 13.5 because thats almost attainable stock.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:19 PM
  #18  
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I looked it up, the number for a vert is 13.49 by NHRA and NMRA standards, but that's a bar, not a cage. It doesn't say, but I'm imagining it's a 6pt like you would be from Maximum Motorsports. Keep in mind though, if you plan on going faster, you can go as far down as 11.0 with that setup, although with a hardtop it's not required until 11.49.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ZW99GT
There is no one that's gonna be able to help you launch good on street tires on a budget. Sorry bro.

You are gonna need sticky tires!
So true! Dime's car would not launch for crap with less of a tire. A bias-ply tire will out perform a drag radial with all other things being equal. For instance, my car ran a 13.14 on 17' Nitto drag radials, ran a 12.89 on 15" BFG drag radials, than on 26x11.5x15 Hoosier QTP's (bias-ply) it ran a 12.79. Suspension, power and weight all the same.
Old Nov 5, 2008 | 09:36 PM
  #20  
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To Hell with Drag Radials..... Mickey Thompson ET Streets FTW!!! lol. Just don't plan on any fast highway maneuvers! lol

But nah.... A good set of Mickey Thompson Street Radials to fit on an 18 inch rim will set you back a pretty penny. They are MORE expensive then NITTO 555Rs but they hook LOADS better. If you still want Drag Radials on a budget, you can always go BFG.

There is no easy suspension set up..... And there is even fewer that you'll find that make a comfortable ride.....

my suspension:

90/10 struts in the Front
50/50 Shocks in the back
UPR fixed upper and lower control arms
Subframe Conectors (Long ways down the car)
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