460 build thread
1st Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 51
From: PA
Finally all coming together looks amazing cant wait to hear it start. With the engine comp you didnt do any mods to it other than fixing your cracks rite? that motor for the most part will fit once u drop it in correct? minus all the supports and that rite
Thread Starter
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,839
From: Ohio
heres some pics...and actually, my buddy has done all of the recent work on it...the custom stuff is beyond my skill level, and ide rather have someone do it who will make it look and perform right the first time than to learn on my car...im just anxious to have it back on the road
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 177
From: ohio
well i guess i should reply to this..lol im the buddie with the shop. and i just read this front to back and up and down. and still cant believe i never heard of this forum. place is big..too big.
but to clear up some thing's for every one, i figured would post up some shots of the engine bay with an ruler to give you a better idea on how this fits in this chassis, and why i did the things i did.
almost all motors in fords are offset, to the passenger side. but the BBF swap in the later chassis is much nicer then in the fox chassis. much more room since the sn95 had a much larger trans tunnel, longer engine bay, and wider to boot.
lots of room on the driver side
not as much room on the passenger side, but even the mod motors have less here
most of the room you gain is around the frame rail.
with the stock 94/95 k member tho, you have the 5.0 mounting mounts to work with the fox swap mounts. doesnt give much room up front tho
lots of room from the back. making trans swaps a breeze. and the nice thing to, the driver side header comes apart in the car so you can still remove the trans with ease.(unlike a 2v with long tubes, which sucks i know, i am doing one this week)
but anyway on with some updates with the car.
trans lines are in, and tucked for the header to clear them. which you cant see them in the pic cause i used my bender to tuck them in real nice.
I'll try to get a pic from under it tomorrow.
mounted the coolant jug on the frame rail, since the t stat housing sits higer then the radiator cap, i'll be running the cap in the upper housing to keep it from getting air pockets trapped for now, till i can do a custom radiator and cooling tank for the car.
these cars always had ground every where, so i and putting ground points every where tucked away for the stock wiring to ground on.
made a delete panel for the stock shifter hole, going to be running switches and maybe a gauge in there. and mounted the hyfire box there for easy changes at the track
and started laying out how the cage is going to go in it, need to leave room in the rear for a mini tub down the road.
IMO, he needs to get one of my upr k members and set the engine back 1" in the extra slots. then you could use the stock trans mounting holes, since im using the stock style cross member. now the k member spacers, was many designed for the fox chassis cars. they are 1.5" thick, tylers are solid aluminum, which is heaver then the older box design style which i have on mine, but the plan is to have these cnc'd down to slim weight off. put it helps a ton with the drive line angles and a few other issues when dropping in a bb.
thats all i have on this for now, maybe tomorrow after another round on all the cars, i can get some more progress done i can make a proper intro thread here for every one.
but to clear up some thing's for every one, i figured would post up some shots of the engine bay with an ruler to give you a better idea on how this fits in this chassis, and why i did the things i did.
almost all motors in fords are offset, to the passenger side. but the BBF swap in the later chassis is much nicer then in the fox chassis. much more room since the sn95 had a much larger trans tunnel, longer engine bay, and wider to boot.
lots of room on the driver side
not as much room on the passenger side, but even the mod motors have less here
most of the room you gain is around the frame rail.
with the stock 94/95 k member tho, you have the 5.0 mounting mounts to work with the fox swap mounts. doesnt give much room up front tho
lots of room from the back. making trans swaps a breeze. and the nice thing to, the driver side header comes apart in the car so you can still remove the trans with ease.(unlike a 2v with long tubes, which sucks i know, i am doing one this week)
but anyway on with some updates with the car.
trans lines are in, and tucked for the header to clear them. which you cant see them in the pic cause i used my bender to tuck them in real nice.
I'll try to get a pic from under it tomorrow.mounted the coolant jug on the frame rail, since the t stat housing sits higer then the radiator cap, i'll be running the cap in the upper housing to keep it from getting air pockets trapped for now, till i can do a custom radiator and cooling tank for the car.
these cars always had ground every where, so i and putting ground points every where tucked away for the stock wiring to ground on.
made a delete panel for the stock shifter hole, going to be running switches and maybe a gauge in there. and mounted the hyfire box there for easy changes at the track
and started laying out how the cage is going to go in it, need to leave room in the rear for a mini tub down the road.
IMO, he needs to get one of my upr k members and set the engine back 1" in the extra slots. then you could use the stock trans mounting holes, since im using the stock style cross member. now the k member spacers, was many designed for the fox chassis cars. they are 1.5" thick, tylers are solid aluminum, which is heaver then the older box design style which i have on mine, but the plan is to have these cnc'd down to slim weight off. put it helps a ton with the drive line angles and a few other issues when dropping in a bb.
thats all i have on this for now, maybe tomorrow after another round on all the cars, i can get some more progress done i can make a proper intro thread here for every one.
Last edited by Gearhead559; Jan 22, 2010 at 11:56 PM.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 177
From: ohio
been a sleepless night for me, but the nice part about it is, when i have the motivation, i am only 20 feet from the shop..lol
but got some holes cut for the gauges to check fitment, the tach is going to be tight on the crash bar, but i can make it work
making sure the door bars clear the arm rests
at this point, my car is donating alot of parts for this build. hoses, alternator and pulleys and so on. your welcome tyler
had to move the over flow jug to clear the alternator ...
pics of the trans lines
ran some wiring for the alt and starter, and got the nitrous stuff fitted.
braided lines ran , and found a rare fox body clutch cable hole grommet
but got some holes cut for the gauges to check fitment, the tach is going to be tight on the crash bar, but i can make it work
making sure the door bars clear the arm rests
at this point, my car is donating alot of parts for this build. hoses, alternator and pulleys and so on. your welcome tyler
had to move the over flow jug to clear the alternator ...
pics of the trans lines
ran some wiring for the alt and starter, and got the nitrous stuff fitted.
braided lines ran , and found a rare fox body clutch cable hole grommet