hey guys,

I'm thinking about buying a stall from my friend. it is a B&M Holeshot 2400. I can get it for a good price.

I was wondering if anyone has installed one?

Any tips?

Any information at all on torque converters?

Any write ups?

Thanks a lot for all the help.

-Patrick

 

only a 2400 stall? would seem like a waste, good deal or not.

 

ive gotten the 3000 holeshot and i cant stall more than 1700 before the back wheels spin

 

What gear are you running?

Also, do you plan on forced induction? If so, 2400 stall is about right. If not, I wouldn't go with anything less than a 3600, especially if you add cams.
That being said, I would NEVER purchase a used t/c. Way too much work and risk of damage to your trans if something isn't right.
BTW, you'll need a lock-up converter. At the power level you're at, a GOOD single-disc can get the job done, but don't go cheap on it. You could throw for the triple-disc, but there have been reports of chugging/shuttering with those.

Call the guys at Circle-D Specialties....they will get it right the first time.

 

I wouldn't go with anything less than 3000 that isn't lockup either. My friend went with a 2400 on his fox body and told him it was a waste and he really didn't pick up that much from it. I plan on going to 3000 stall down the road when I can afford it.

 

You guys need to do some research....you have a 4.6 2v, a stock converter in your car will flash about 2500...so a 2400 would actually be lower than stock.


The mod motors are differant than pushrod 5.0s.


You will need a lot of stall.

Anything less than 3200 would be a complete waste.

I run a 3600-3800 on my daily driven, blown gt.

The only way you will see the stall speed off a launch is with a transbrake.

My stall will only rev to about 2500 or so with the brakes

 

If you "flash" the converter from a dead idle, you will see your true stall speed, or very close to it. Also, the same converter will stall to a different speed if used in two cars with different hp ratings. t/c's are built to an expected hp number. If you order a 3600 rated for 300rwhp, but you currently only have 260rwhp, it's not going to stall that high.

You have to think of the entire powertrain as a system. When you get all of the pieces together, you'll be where you want to be. Until that point, just pick components that fit in with your long term goals for the car.

BTW, a good rule of thumb for stall speed is ~700 rpm below your peak torque rpm number. Most modular 4.6's make peak torque around 4100.

 

Good information ^


He is right, get a converter made for your car or what you plan on doing.

Don't buy some generic crap.


I would say to go for 3200-3500 depending on how you want it to feel.

 

its a holeshot 2400 which is 2300-2500 it is a lock up converter.

its not just some used one off craigslist, its my buddy's

i already have stage 1 cams and 4.10 gear.

I can get it for 250 and install myself.



that being said, think i should go for it?....if not can someone link me to a decent one at a decent price?

and also i will still need some info on installing one

thanks

 

Not exactly a good price, you can get a new one for $299 on jegs.

It doesn't matter as it's not really an upgrade from the stock converter if they have around the same stall.