Hi I was thinkin of gettin a bassani x-pipe and a steeda c.a.i. but I dont want to trip the c.e.l. can any one help with this?

 

Get a catted X-pipe, there is little to nothing to be gained with a o/r pipe.

The after market CAI is a waste of money--the CAI that came with the car is as good as any after market rig (except maybe the JLT fenderwell unit). Save the money and get a 2-1/2" catback system--then a tuner as the 87 octane OEM tune sucks...

 

If you do go with the off road version then you will probably need some Mil Eliminators.

 

You can make them for around $5.

I did this years ago, before we did some back-to-back dyno runs, and pretty much proved there was little to no power to be gained (noise and stink is al you gain) running an o/r pipe vs. well-flowing catted pipe.

 

^ They pretty much covered it, but honestly i like the off road mipes... plus they usually cheaper

 

Yea, and if youre going with bassani, it will help to go o/r as bassani=expensive!!! lol All you gotta do is get/make mil's or buy a tuner and turn the rear o2's off. Thats what mine did and my car passed emissions with flying colors because we dont have visual. If it passes OBDII, it passes.

 

you have to ask yourself do you want to change to a catted pipe everytime your car is due for inspection? you live in cali arent they really strict out there with emissions?

 

Very true. Just stay stock if youre in cali and dont feel like changing.

 

WUTTTTTTTTTTTT

#1 cats kill power
#2 get yourself a JLT CAI very nice piece and will help power


there is little to nothing to be gained except a huge hole in your wallet by adding just a catback and a tune. dont waste your money on a tune until you get a worth while amount of bolt ons. tunes arnt cheap!!

 

While I have never done back-to-back cat/no-cat tests on a 4.5L 2V, I did do such tests on a 1.6L supercharged Miata using a "test pipe" and the cheapest FLAPS cat we could find--there was no discernible difference in power right up to 7500 rpm. This was done with a 4-2-1 header, and 2-1/4" exhaust.

If anyone has dyno proof of power gained by cats vs. no-cats (back-to-back, cat/no-cat only--not going from an OEM catted pipe to a 2-1/2" o/r pipe) I'd enjoy seeing them.

As to buying a tuner¹, opening up the exhaust is the only thing I would recommend be done before getting a tuner. The OEM tune is pathetic, built to meet EPA emissions standards while running 87 octane fuel, and make sure you cannot damage the motor while it's under warranty.

This is why the first thing every 87 octane canned tune I've ever seen immediately adds 2° to the Global Spark Adder, another 2° across the upper end of the Spark Borderline table, and leans out the Stabilised Open Loop Fuel table by 3-4% at the higher load/rpm ranges. If you think changes like that do not make more power you need to study up on engine management.


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¹ - Note I said buying a tuner, and obviously learning how to use it--not having a tune done at a shop. I agree that if you do not have the tools and knowledge to tune it yourself then it probably makes sense to drive about hobbled by the OEM tune until such time as you feel the time has come...