Educate me on kmembers
#12
Tubular K-members do 3 major things, save a decent amount of weight up front, free up space for things such as turbo kits and oversized oil pans, and when ran with tubular a-arms and such, they allow the use of a coil-over system on the front of our cars. They are expensive, a pain to install, and unless ran with coil-overs they make your car ride like crap from what I've heard, so I wouldn't suggest getting one unless it's needed for something like a turbo kit. Hope this helps a bit.
#14
they're not all the same. qa1s (and older granatelli's which were basically a qa1 knockoff i believe) and some older d and ds pushed the wheels forward an inch or so. why? my guess is this is somewhat as beneficial as engine set back but all i've ever heard is people complain about rubbin the front bumper/fenders. i would buy a team z or a upr. ride feel will be changed if you swap to a different spring rate coil over or if you get solid rod ends on the control arm mounts.
#15
Iv seen peoples before after k member swaps and iv seen ppl lose 90-100 lbs with a kmember/a-arm swap. thats a pretty decent gain. Iv never heard of it giving a harsh ride though.. its understandable though, less weight means less dampening.
#20
I'd go with UPR....Their kit is $349 and only is available in chrome moly which is usually a hefty upgrade on most other brands. This is why most others are "cheaper" because they are using cheaper materials to make the kit.
If you look at PA racing's website, it's an extra $180 to get a chrome moly k which brings the price up from $219 up to $399. Team Z's k is $289 but $399 if you want chrome moly.
If you look at PA racing's website, it's an extra $180 to get a chrome moly k which brings the price up from $219 up to $399. Team Z's k is $289 but $399 if you want chrome moly.