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Looking in No2

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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #1  
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98redstang
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Default Looking in No2

Okay well i am basically a complete noob when it comes to nitrous so im looking for some help and info here. I can build motors and just about everything else but i have no knowledge on no2 haha.
What are the basics i need to know?
How much can i spray without a retune?
Wet or dry?
How safe is it?
Which kit would be best for me considering its my DD and i go to the track probably 2-3 times a month and im trying to keep the price down to under 500-600?
Thanks,
Greg
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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Limit on spray before retune=100 shot
Wet kit so you dont need a retune
Pretty safe, but some risk as with every modification to our cars(watch the intake mani)
Buy used to keep price down, or just watch craigslist for NIB ones that people just arent gonna use or have to get rid of for some reason. Ebay also would be a good place to watch. I hear ZEX nitrous kits are pretty legit though. Look into those.
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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yeah ive seen a couple on craigs already for around 400 which is right up my alley. Oh and how come high compression is good works good with the nitrous?
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 07:58 PM
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first its N2O
if you have a hand held tuner its easy, just remove about 2 degree of timing.
run a step colder sparks

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...&cat=96&page=1
is a complete kit minus a heater which is only 130 more
it includes a WOT switch and act. switch

dry is better because there is less chance for your intake to blow up. thats about all i know on the subject, im sure someone else will chime in.
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by stangalator
first its N2O
if you have a hand held tuner its easy, just remove about 2 degree of timing.
run a step colder sparks

http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/prod...&cat=96&page=1
is a complete kit minus a heater which is only 130 more
it includes a WOT switch and act. switch

dry is better because there is less chance for your intake to blow up. thats about all i know on the subject, im sure someone else will chime in.
Whoops haha told you im retarted in that subject lol.
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:02 PM
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Teej I'm dissapointed...usually ur good lol...
Basics... be smart about it and play by the rules
Tune depends on. What alls done to the car, give me a full list...EVERYTHING!
Wet vs dry is opinion, I've always ran wet for various reasons.
Any name brand kit...but buying new you will not make it happen for under 600...
You need...a kit and a window switch at a minimum...heater is a great idea... and I highly recomend not using a micro switch and getting a wot switch.

I have a wet kit fs btw...got me in the 12.0s

Tell me all your mods, plugs, etc and ill be able to help w an amount and tune info...is the car already tuned?
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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You dont even need to pull timing...read the thread mustangmancp started about the graduation gift. GTRACER88 goes into detail about his nitrous experience. And i wouldnt do a dry kit especially since that means he needs to buy bigger fuel injectors and get a retune for them and the nitrous to supply the extra fuel, rather than the wet kit that draws the fuel from the fuel line directly. Just saying. So i'd just install the nitrous and check your a/f and make sure youre not getting detonation and go for it.

Dime, sorry if this is all incorrect. Im just going off of what GTRACER88 has said recently through his experience and stuff. Can you name what i said wrong so i dont do it again???
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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Literally everything that is done to it is in my sig. The plugs are the stock replacement ones and it has a tune but its not really a good one.
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:10 PM
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Was it you that i was talking to about getting a retune because the upper rpms the car likes to vibrate or something???
Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by teej281
Was it you that i was talking to about getting a retune because the upper rpms the car likes to vibrate or something???
Yep you said your family friend or someone like that. And the problem was that when the idiot that built that i had build the motor put it all in he didnt install a pilot bearing(which ended up costing him 1000 for my new transmission). So when it would get to around 4800 it would shake badly and loose power so when he tuned it theres no way he could have gone over 4800. Also he said the back brakes were dragging a little which i later found out that my slide pins were rusted badly thus keeping the pads touching the rotors. And on top of everything he tuned for 87 and didnt even touch the timing. So basically he didnt do anything and if i get a retune with 93 im hoping to reach the 300 mark haha.



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