Methanol Injection...
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,250
From: Cleveland, TN
Goto anderson ford motorsports website and look at the mr.freeze kit. I think it is 200 bucks top and all you need to install it is a drill bit (unless you have the powerpipe) and some zip ties. It installs in maybe 20 minutes as it works off vacuum.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,374
From: MD, but NC for school
dang it 01MGGT post pics!!! your killing me, I'll probably get that kit eventually(brakes are in the mail now 
) but id like to see exactly what this kit looks like and how it ties in/mounts
and to the OP, I agree with 01MGGT without any cooling your car will be a DOG daily driving, unless the ambient air is pretty cool, then you make lots of power! haha
) but id like to see exactly what this kit looks like and how it ties in/mountsand to the OP, I agree with 01MGGT without any cooling your car will be a DOG daily driving, unless the ambient air is pretty cool, then you make lots of power! haha
4th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,173
From: WI
I have the IAT sensor mounted after the injection and if the intake temp gets too hot the PCM will pull timing.
I wouldn't run a methanol/water injection kit without some sort of fail safe operation, how does the Mr. Freeze kit work?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,731
Methanol Injection uses evaporation and the enthalpy gained from it to cool the intake charge.
When a liquid evaporates, maybe as you've noticed when you're getting out of a pool, you actually lose energy (kenetic energy), resulting in cooling. This has alot to do with the nature of water and such, so it's much more than you need to worry about to know how it works
Anyway, when the methanol is injected into the intake charge, as long as the mist isn't too dense, the water will evaporate, especially given a 100+ degree intake charge before the injection. This will drop the temperature drastically, depending on how much you're spraying.
The Methanol acts as an octane "booster" because methanol alone burns at 120 octane I believe. Being that it's essentially being mixed with your premium gas, it results in you running essentially 104-105 octane.
99, the IAT should always be mounted close to the throttle body in an FI situation, otherwise you're asking for problems. In any case, the high octane shouldn't be relied upon, I agree with you, but even lowering the intake temps results in less chance of detonation, meaning that if the nozzle were to get plugged, higher temps alone could cause pinging/detonation.
if the IAT is kept near the throttle body, you can minimize this effect, and if the temperature noticeably gets higher during boost, timing can be pulled, which it should be anyway.
Meth is very reliable. I was running in SCCA for quite some time using Meth alone.
I do however always recommend going FMIC. It's much MORE reliable, and it's essentially set it and forget it. No tanks to keep filling, no nozzles to clean, nothing. Not to mention, no matter what, it's going to be unbelievably consistent.
When a liquid evaporates, maybe as you've noticed when you're getting out of a pool, you actually lose energy (kenetic energy), resulting in cooling. This has alot to do with the nature of water and such, so it's much more than you need to worry about to know how it works
Anyway, when the methanol is injected into the intake charge, as long as the mist isn't too dense, the water will evaporate, especially given a 100+ degree intake charge before the injection. This will drop the temperature drastically, depending on how much you're spraying.
The Methanol acts as an octane "booster" because methanol alone burns at 120 octane I believe. Being that it's essentially being mixed with your premium gas, it results in you running essentially 104-105 octane.
99, the IAT should always be mounted close to the throttle body in an FI situation, otherwise you're asking for problems. In any case, the high octane shouldn't be relied upon, I agree with you, but even lowering the intake temps results in less chance of detonation, meaning that if the nozzle were to get plugged, higher temps alone could cause pinging/detonation.
if the IAT is kept near the throttle body, you can minimize this effect, and if the temperature noticeably gets higher during boost, timing can be pulled, which it should be anyway.
Meth is very reliable. I was running in SCCA for quite some time using Meth alone.
I do however always recommend going FMIC. It's much MORE reliable, and it's essentially set it and forget it. No tanks to keep filling, no nozzles to clean, nothing. Not to mention, no matter what, it's going to be unbelievably consistent.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,250
From: Cleveland, TN
dang it 01MGGT post pics!!! your killing me, I'll probably get that kit eventually(brakes are in the mail now ) but id like to see exactly what this kit looks like and how it ties in/mounts
and to the OP, I agree with 01MGGT without any cooling your car will be a DOG daily driving, unless the ambient air is pretty cool, then you make lots of power! haha
) but id like to see exactly what this kit looks like and how it ties in/mountsand to the OP, I agree with 01MGGT without any cooling your car will be a DOG daily driving, unless the ambient air is pretty cool, then you make lots of power! haha
As you can see it is very cramped in our engine bays so I zip tied it to the support rod for the coolant tank. I had no issues at 100+ mph at the track or when going wot around town. System has performed flawless and I even bought it used. Data logs proved there were instant results!