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kenne bell diff gears

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Old 10-16-2010, 03:27 AM
  #61  
tbirdscwd
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Originally Posted by teej281
Whatever. 4.10's and full suspension and drag radials is the only way to a successful setup. No other gears should be considered for anything other than turbo. You're seriously impossible. Nitrous cars and blower cars are not the same. You can go ahead and tell the op to keep 4.10's with the blower. But make sure he knows he needs full drag suspension as well as 28" tall drag radials at least to make his setup work. No matter if you think you know what you're talking about, the rule of thumb is no more than 3.73's with a blower, especially with a PD blower. The reason why it is the rule of thumb is because it works best. At 350rwhp, op shouldn't have any problems hooking up with a nice street tire and 3.55's. Like I have been saying, yes everything should be done at one point in time. Right now I think he should do the gears. I know what both 4.10's and 3.55's feel like with the exact same power level...in my own car. I know for a fact that the 3.55's make traction a lot more manageable than 4.10's. I know what's working for other people, and what people have run with success.

Like i keep saying, your car is one setup and everything has to work together. Gears are definitely a factor that needs to be addressed, especially in your situation seeing that you have a twin screw car. Suspension and tires should also be addressed but for your current power I do not see the need for all the drag racing suspension and drag radials needed to hook your car with 4.10's when traction with what you have now would be a lot more manageable with 3.55's.
I have posted real world results of guys with way more power/torque with the same gears hooking on everything from drag radials to slicks, from very mild suspension upgrades to full on drag setups. Your blanket statement that 4.10s and blowers don't mix is just plain inaccurate.

I am not even saying that 4.10s are the most desirable gear for a twin screw build......I am just saying that since he already has them and is only around 350rwhp/tq, he should try getting a decent set of tires and some simple suspension mods before he just starts swapping gears out. That level of power/torque is very manageable no matter how he is making it. It hardly takes a full drag suspension and a 28" tire. Get real

I am over this thread. The OP has plenty of opinions in many different directions in here. I think if you had anything else to defend your theories besides "my buddy has a car," then you would have probably posted it by now.
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:31 PM
  #62  
bigtom
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Thanks for all the input guys. Don't think that there was a clear consensus (spell?). As it stands I feel like the front suspension has been optimised (on a buget). The rear steeda lowering springs should work ok. Stock rear shocks should be ok too. I was looking at lakewood traction action lcas to lower the axle lca mounting point and thus rectifying lca geometry issues from the chassis sitting lower. Was going to leave the ucas stock for now. Later get some drs either nitto 555r or mt street radials (315/35/17). Would be nice if the sumis would stick (they did ok 100hp ish ago!) Kenne Bell said most folks use stock gears for the street but say 3.73 is optimal for the 1/4 (are those guys using slicks I wonder?) If I put the stock 3.23 gears back in would the acceleration feel slower? I have a guy who will install gears for me for $150 plus oil. DRs are gonna set me back a good $400-$500 (and I worry about the stock 28 spines with DRs). LCAs maybe $200, just trying to work out how to put the torque to the ashphalt without too much $$$ (I did just drop $4000 recently)
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Old 10-17-2010, 06:26 PM
  #63  
darkmach1
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Wow! This thread would be no longer than 2 pages long if people without PD blowers would just stay out.

OP, Im not sure what year you GT is but if it has a 3650 go back to a 3.73s at least, but since I imagine you will keep upgrading just get 3.55s, depends on what deals you can get on which gears. I ran 4.10s on my Eaton and even though it was fun, the car was hard to manage on street tires (I have LCAs and suspension), not only that but the car was being robbed of the top end and 4th maxed out at close to 125, thats about as high I was able to run it, now with 3.55s the car is manageable during launch and 1st and 2nd actually pulls much better. Those out there that run 4.10s on a PD blower are mostly doing it for the track and still run a 28in tire. So just go back to a 3.55 gear and run 26in tire at the track (if you go) AND get a couple MPGs back in highway driving.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:45 PM
  #64  
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My gt is a 2000 convertible with the windsor 8 bolt crank block. It has a T45 5 speed. I read one of the posts explaining the cobra 1st gear ratio being different to the gt T3560 so the final gear reduction can differ whilst using the same rear gears. I will take a look at what my T45 has for gear ratios and compare to the newer 3560 (is that right? 3560?) Since some of the info give seemed to assume I had the newer transmission.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:50 PM
  #65  
boduke0220
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has your overall hp goal been stated yet?
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:15 PM
  #66  
bigtom
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Ok so I have learnt that I misspelt the trans denottation its T3650.

As far as ratio differences go my T45 has 0.01 lower gear in all gears but 4th!

Being that I already own a set of perfectly good 3.27 gears is it really worth the extra $150 for some 3.55s?
Plus KB forgot to flash my chip for 4.10s and flashed for default 3.27s! So if I put the stock gears back in then I wouldn't have to pull my ECM chip and mail to California.

I recognise a lot of guys suggested the 3.55s. I respect and apreciate all the input but the stock ratio seems so close to the 3.55 is it worth doing a bit more overtime and spending the cash for a slightly taller ratio?
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:26 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by bigtom
Ok so I have learnt that I misspelt the trans denottation its T3650.

As far as ratio differences go my T45 has 0.01 lower gear in all gears but 4th!

Being that I already own a set of perfectly good 3.27 gears is it really worth the extra $150 for some 3.55s?
Plus KB forgot to flash my chip for 4.10s and flashed for default 3.27s! So if I put the stock gears back in then I wouldn't have to pull my ECM chip and mail to California.

I recognise a lot of guys suggested the 3.55s. I respect and apreciate all the input but the stock ratio seems so close to the 3.55 is it worth doing a bit more overtime and spending the cash for a slightly taller ratio?
Sell the 4.10s and 3.27s and get a set of 3.55s or 3.73s, whichever you find a better deal in. I bought my 3.55s for $80 and sold my 4.10s for $100.
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:37 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by boduke0220
has your overall hp goal been stated yet?
430rwhp max (might take a couple of years to get there..$$$$)
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Old 10-17-2010, 10:21 PM
  #69  
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Gears need to be dropped to 3.55 or 3.73. I have a 2v with a kb and 4.10's... with bald drag radials 1st 2nd and some of 3rd are pointless... i have a fully built suspension, i know with better tires im going to hook.but im still going to be shifting every few seconds.... 4th redlines at 110 mph on my car, check street and strip section to see me and friends gt500. If i had 3.55 there is no doubt that i would have beat him twice as bad... the gears just end wayyyyyy to soon....

Good luck with ur decision,im choosing 3.55's... 600 whp is just around corner
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