welding your torque boxes?
#22
I should probably get mine welded before any damage is done, as Fred said its not if but when they will go.
On a side note I have been getting the urge to learn how to weld recently
On a side note I have been getting the urge to learn how to weld recently
Last edited by jvog; 01-04-2011 at 06:33 PM.
#23
I suspect the former (welded in several spots), as "spot-welding" technically refers to having two electrodes on either side of adjacent panels to be welded, and passing an electrical current sufficient to fuse the metal through the panels...
#24
For clarification, are you referring to having it "welded" in some/several spots, or actually "spot-welded" in the conventional sense of the term?
I suspect the former (welded in several spots), as "spot-welding" technically refers to having two electrodes on either side of adjacent panels to be welded, and passing an electrical current sufficient to fuse the metal through the panels...
I suspect the former (welded in several spots), as "spot-welding" technically refers to having two electrodes on either side of adjacent panels to be welded, and passing an electrical current sufficient to fuse the metal through the panels...
#25
That is what I assumed, and why I asked, and I agree 110% that true "spot-welding" would be an extreme waste of time and money...
#26
Additionally, added "spots" of welding along the exposed seam is also a waste of time and money--to do it properly you need to drill a number of "largish" holes (1/4") through the outermost layer of metal at close intervals (1/2" to 3/4" intervals), and then weld (preferably TIG) through the holes to the base panel.
#28
That is what I assumed, and why I asked, and I agree 110% that true "spot-welding" would be an extreme waste of time and money...
Additionally, added "spots" of welding along the exposed seam is also a waste of time and money--to do it properly you need to drill a number of "largish" holes (1/4") through the outermost layer of metal at close intervals (1/2" to 3/4" intervals), and then weld (preferably TIG) through the holes to the base panel.
Additionally, added "spots" of welding along the exposed seam is also a waste of time and money--to do it properly you need to drill a number of "largish" holes (1/4") through the outermost layer of metal at close intervals (1/2" to 3/4" intervals), and then weld (preferably TIG) through the holes to the base panel.
#29
I was pondering doing something along those lines or just drilling through the spot welds themselves and installing a large bolt through each of them with around 3/4" OD washers at least 1/8" thick on either side to sandwich them in. I would think this would spread the stress over a much larger area vs a couple small ~3/8" spot welds. Then I realized that I would be spending $20-25 on just hardware when the actual upper box kit is only like $50 which would be a lot stronger.
The problem is not that the OEM spot welds are a bad way of doing it, just that they are too few and far between to accommodate loads that are far in excess of the design goals.
'Twas me I would just add simulated "spot" welds as described above (drill through one surface, then TIG the hole)--or grind through the "roll" at the mating surfaces and TIG the whole length of the joint...