69MustangCoupe393cid

Now here is some good info. I will probably pass on the connectors for now since I don't rip around corners to hard, but I think the next mod is going to be UDP.

How much more do you think I can get out of it if I already have the 93 octane tune done if I get the wideband? If it's only a few hp it's probably not worth it, but 11 is probably worth it.

Jazzer The Cat

See..... SFC's help to put power to the ground and control it once it gets going. They should be your #1 mod on ANY performance upgrade to a pre-S197.

Jazzer

69MustangCoupe393cid

Ok ok maybe I'll think about the connectors, any particular brands better than others?

Jazzer The Cat

Can't go wrong with MM, but are some nicer ones out there for additional support..

.... or you can go Griggs


Forever the MF's pimp Catty

69MustangCoupe393cid

My car is just a DD, it won't ever see an auto X; what would you recommend in this case? I don't really want to lose ground clearance especially if I ever decide to go with lowering springs; do any of them hang lower than others?

Jazzer The Cat

I was just'a showin' off to the youngins here

MM is gonna be great for all but the most extreme hard-core and still good for most of those folks too!

I will ask what I always do in the cases such as yours...

What is the ULTIMATE goal for your ride?

Jazzer

tdcalhoun89

"jazzer rockin out"

I'd just get a set of MM full length sub frame connectors (powder coated)... they're like ~$10 more than any other "name brand" ones and you can't go wrong with them. They're my next mod....

stangalator

yea, subframes are really good. I too did a one jack stand trick, it doesn't look as good because there is some lean in the front sway bar since its stock but the deflection is almost nil. Of course I have the upper along with my MM lowers.



If you go the wideband route then you can tune your fuel alot better. I tuned my fuel in from ~12.1:1 to 13:1 and adjusted the timing to 24-30 degrees at WOT (canned 93 tune to 93 adjusted). my torque went from 275 to 292 which is 17 but I also added steeda pullies too so I figured ~5 for them.

Either way is worth it even as a DD

69MustangCoupe393cid

Daily Driver. Mild mods. I need it reliable, don't want to spend too much, but want it to still be fun (read: not stock). I don't plan on ever getting into the engine, ie. cams and never plan on FI or spray. Just a mild bolt on car. I think I might do some pullies next since they might help fuel mileage and seem to free up some tq (kind of the end result of what I'm looking for in this car). My brake upgrade will come after my current brakes wear out and possibly the SFC since you guys brought them up and say they really make a difference.

Actually here's a question for you (or anyone else) since you brought up connectors. Say I was going to turn this into a drag car at some point in the future (I actually do plan on this after the engine and such wears out), should I go for a different set of SFC, or would the MM ones do ok? Realistically, I say 10 second, but I might be more in the 11's when all is said and done. So basically I'm asking if those things would do well on an 11 second drag car as well as a DD.



Wow, so you're saying from the tune that comes with sniper, to the tune you have now you gained that much? You're talking wheel as well correct?

What is the timing set at with the canned tune that comes with the sniper? I plan on upping my timing some from that and I'm sure that will gain some for me. Did you try advancing timing before you got the wideband and such? Or did you only advance timing after you had the wideband?

Say I adjust the canned tune timing to right before knock and such, and then decide to go with a wideband. How much more do you think I could get by having the wideband to go off of?

stangalator

I'm not sure what the stock timing is, but you can data log your car and find out. You can graph your mph, rpm, timing, etc.. on one graph and see how engine load and rpm affect your timing. I just started the record on my laptop using "recon" and did a 0-100 mph pull and looked at how timing looks at shift points and from 2500-6000 the timing was in the 25-30 range after i tuned it a bit. I have a cooler stat and the fans set to turn o at a lower temp so i could bump the timing up a hair more, however with the canned tune youll be running richer so you can run more timing then me since its safer. Just tty messing with the timing at the strip and use your trap speeds to determine the affective "power gains".

Look on the forums for the sniper software (delta?) they sometimes post graphs of there tunes that work the best and you can use them as a template to start with your tune. I used someones pi swapped data and thats the timing they dynoed at the highest so I try to match there timing and used a 13:1 ratio for fuel. Even with bone stock rear suspension and sumi tires I was able to trap 104.76 mph with a pi swap and a few bolt ons.

I can post up a graph of one of my graphs for a year ago if you are interested.