New Suspension
#1
New Suspension
So i have been seeing a few forums on here about suspension, and I have been looking for parts for a new suspension. I have a 1998 GT, all stock, and was thinking about getting the bullitt suspension(http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Suspension-Kit), that someone on here recommended. I have been talking to jazz about it, but would like to see what other people think. I just want a car that can take a corner without feeling like a boat. Thanks
#4
bad thing about these cars is the 4 link rear, wasnt designed very well for cornering. too much laterial movement, as much as 1-1.5 inches each way under hard cornering. i personally would skip the bullitt suspension, because it doesnt address this problem. give me a few minutes and i'll see what i can dig up
#5
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-b...gs-8-inch.html
need two pairs of these^
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-9...l-arm-kit.html
this will put you right at 400 and will help your corning greatly. you can pick up your choice of springs for around 200. shocks and struts can cost from 250 to over 500 depending on what you want. i can go on for what can be done for better handling but we already are over the limit. suspension gets very costly if done right. the bullitt setup will improve your handling, im just showing you how to make it even better
need two pairs of these^
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-9...l-arm-kit.html
this will put you right at 400 and will help your corning greatly. you can pick up your choice of springs for around 200. shocks and struts can cost from 250 to over 500 depending on what you want. i can go on for what can be done for better handling but we already are over the limit. suspension gets very costly if done right. the bullitt setup will improve your handling, im just showing you how to make it even better
#7
thats why i included the first link. it contains the spherical bushings needed to replace one poly bushing in each arm. im glad you read the guide though, great info there! if you really want to go big, a pan hard bar with watts link is the best but a pretty penny is needed. i actually hard to refer to that guide again to understand what you were talking about.
#8
Actually its a Torque arm with a Watts Link. Panhard bar and watts link do the same thing.
To the OP, start saving. The bullitt suspension wont do a tremendous amount for handling. In order to get into handling, you're going to have to address the bind in the control arms, the side-to-side movement of the rear end housing, as well as dampers and other things. For me, I invested in an 03 Cobra IRS for my car, did solid bushings in it, and coilovers. This setup is expensive but rides very well, handles on rails, and is bearable on long drives.
To the OP, start saving. The bullitt suspension wont do a tremendous amount for handling. In order to get into handling, you're going to have to address the bind in the control arms, the side-to-side movement of the rear end housing, as well as dampers and other things. For me, I invested in an 03 Cobra IRS for my car, did solid bushings in it, and coilovers. This setup is expensive but rides very well, handles on rails, and is bearable on long drives.
#9
< types too slow
Although, the addition of the spherical bearing is an upside to eleviate binding, it can cause some VERY funky movement on extreme articulation, as per the owner of Maximum Motorsports.
I have just stopped recommending ANY aftermarket UCA, reguardless of bearing type, on a DD, with the exception of the following reason. A total grocery-getter with no aggressive cornering and focused strictly on the 1/4 mile. The 4-link is just a messed up deal and goes beyond the binding issues it presents. The RC (roll-center) is way high and upsets the car too much on corners to be very good at them.
I say, save your pennies and look to spend $1K, or so, on a PHB/TA set-up and be BLOWN away by the potential you will find on your Stang.
Jazzer
Although, the addition of the spherical bearing is an upside to eleviate binding, it can cause some VERY funky movement on extreme articulation, as per the owner of Maximum Motorsports.
I have just stopped recommending ANY aftermarket UCA, reguardless of bearing type, on a DD, with the exception of the following reason. A total grocery-getter with no aggressive cornering and focused strictly on the 1/4 mile. The 4-link is just a messed up deal and goes beyond the binding issues it presents. The RC (roll-center) is way high and upsets the car too much on corners to be very good at them.
I say, save your pennies and look to spend $1K, or so, on a PHB/TA set-up and be BLOWN away by the potential you will find on your Stang.
Jazzer
#10
my bad teej, wasnt too clearheaded today. knew what i wanted to say but came out wrong. thanks for the correction before i threw him off. op, listen to these two guys. they know their stuff better than i.