330rwhp is basically the bare minimum people get based off of the supporting mods and amount of boost. I recommend going inter cooled and getting some supporting mods and then 400rwhp shouldn't be a problem. It's gonna cost you a bit more but not too much.

 

I think he was tryingto say pound for pound the 4v will make more power. For example my 4v makes 420rwhp on 8psi. Where the 2v rpughly would make 370ish

 

I was more talking about saving for a mach1/Cobra lol But sure, saving for just a 4V motor could work. I had an 04 GT and had I known how much better the Mach was, I would have gone right to the Mach.

 

I AM with ^.

 

Sorry I didn't get on all day after I got off work yesterday. Here is kindof a breakdown of what I want out of the car. The $2500 is a start for now, I plan to build onto it more later. I want it to be a street/track car (straight line) I'm really not into the auto x stuff. A vortech sounds like a good idea, but i've been watching videos of vortech 2v's and they really don't seem all too impressive? I don't really have a goal for HP I would just like to make the most out of what I have, I don't try to get caught up in the peak HP game really.

 

I got a really good deal on my car that's why I got a 2v. I was looking at some mach's but they were a little out of my price range...most of them go between $11-15k from what I saw. The cobra's weren't even worth looking at in my situation, they are way out of my range right now lol but I may have some more money coming in soon so I will try and keep my options open.

 

I have about the same amount of money to spend and want a daily driver/track car. Im going with a steeper gear ratio, long tube ceramic headers, catted shorty h pipe, borla stingers, under drive pullys, JLT cai, tuner and a larger throttle body

 

His car is a street/strip car with moderate power levels. Our Elite Series control arms work perfectly for that application and they are tubular chrome-moly with custom Energy Suspension bushings that are very durable. We cover them with a lifetime guarantee. At UPR Products, our street/strip 2010 GT uses these arms with great success at 700rwhp. My '89 LX which is a higher powered setup uses sphericals at every joint. (front and rear)

Interestingly enough, I used Pro Series control arms with sphericals all the way around on my daily driver last year with only 236rwhp. The car hooked great on the street, but most people do not like that level of NVH in their daily drivers. Otherwise I would say Sphericals for EVERYONE!

 

True, but for the extra money you spend to buy a Mach in the beginning you will spend on the GT to make it equal to the Mach.

But anywho, not the topic at hand...bang for your buck for $ and Hp would be nitrous. Then would come S/C. But for $2500 (and if you plan to keep the car for a while) go through the whole thing and freshen it up...all bushings, shocks, put in FLSFC's, maybe some gears, a short throw shifter.

Pretty much make your car "like new" with a couple of goodies. Sure you can have a 100Kmi+ car and put a S/C on it but you are on borrowed time without building the engine first. JMHO. Have people done it? Sure. Is it the best idea? Ehh....

 

My car traps 117mph with a vortech supercharger... that's 18mph faster then it would stock. I don't know about you, but that seems pretty impressive to me. That is faster then C5 Z06 Corvettes, C6 LS2 and LS3 Corvettes, Audi R8 (V8 Version), 03/04 Cobra, 07-12 Shelby GT500, LS3 Camaros, 392 Challengers, etc.