Suspension Work
If your looking to rip corners, I would run as much neg. camber as you feel you can afford, in the way of replacing tires sooner than otherwise. I run -2° and will likely go to -2.5+° during my work this winter. That is a LOT of neg. camber and don't recommend going over 1° unless you are a real serious corner carving enthusiast.
Your car can certainly use some additional caster, especially since you are running a wider than OEM tire/wheel up front. I don't recall what I run, but I will run more than you would need, as I have 10" wheels up front. I will find out during my work this Winter and let you know. Be sure to hit me up in a month or two, if I forget to come back here and update.
Jazzer
Your car can certainly use some additional caster, especially since you are running a wider than OEM tire/wheel up front. I don't recall what I run, but I will run more than you would need, as I have 10" wheels up front. I will find out during my work this Winter and let you know. Be sure to hit me up in a month or two, if I forget to come back here and update.
Jazzer
Yes, all the caster you can adjust in is a good way to go. A bunch of negative camber helps a lot. The toe is a huge factor in tire wear. A little toe-out helps get the car to turn in well, but can cause some real problems with tire wear. Toe-out will also drive like it has a mind of its own on crowned road surfaces. If your dynamic toe is at zero, you can run a little more negative camber without terrible wear issues, but if you mix negative camber with much toe the wear issues will grow quickly.
I run between 2 and 2.25 degrees of negative camber on my DD and the tire wear is not bad, but I have just a little static toe-in so it goes to around zero when in motion(less rolling resistance at the drag strip also).
I suggest; all the caster you can get, around 1.5 degrees negative camber, and a little toe-in (depends upon how worn your front bushings are).
I run between 2 and 2.25 degrees of negative camber on my DD and the tire wear is not bad, but I have just a little static toe-in so it goes to around zero when in motion(less rolling resistance at the drag strip also).
I suggest; all the caster you can get, around 1.5 degrees negative camber, and a little toe-in (depends upon how worn your front bushings are).
I got it all done!!!! Looks great, and runs very smooth! One problem i am having though, is that it is making a clunking sound whenever the car goes over a bump or takes a sharp turn. I still need to get it aligned, but I am very pleased overall. If anyone could give me any ideas on what it could be, id greatly appreciate it!
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It has been such a pain adapting the IRS that is setup for abs brakes on a mustang that didnt come with abs brakes. Ive been driving all over the place and finally got all the parts needed to make the custom brake lines that I need. Ill show a picture tonight of what I had to do to make it work.
It has been such a pain adapting the IRS that is setup for abs brakes on a mustang that didnt come with abs brakes. Ive been driving all over the place and finally got all the parts needed to make the custom brake lines that I need. Ill show a picture tonight of what I had to do to make it work.
I got it all done!!!! Looks great, and runs very smooth! One problem i am having though, is that it is making a clunking sound whenever the car goes over a bump or takes a sharp turn. I still need to get it aligned, but I am very pleased overall. If anyone could give me any ideas on what it could be, id greatly appreciate it!
I dodnt put abs on my car. I had to make custon brake hoses and a custom brass block to make it work, because the rear brakes lines are different from a non abs car to an abs car, and the non abs brake hoses arent really long enough to work correctly. So I had to drive all over the place to get the correct banjo bolts and an npt tap.
Also, I found the clunking noise. I guess I didnt tighten up the passanger front strut all the way and moved up and down when turning or going over a bump. I put the bearings in correctly and it is much smoother then the stock setup!
Also, I found the clunking noise. I guess I didnt tighten up the passanger front strut all the way and moved up and down when turning or going over a bump. I put the bearings in correctly and it is much smoother then the stock setup!
i was just about to suggest this, i did the EXACT same thing on my brothers car when i did the work to his... doh!!!


