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This is exactly what I would do as well, except perhaps I'm not brave enough to try sanding the surface with anything. Be careful with that, it's easier to remove a little bit of material than it is to put it back if you go overboard.
Originally Posted by Z28KLR
If you really really really feel the need to use rtv, I would apply a very thin coat only to the gasket in the area of the coolant passage. Very thin, basically just enough so you could say that you used some. Allow it to dry and bond to the gasket before assembly.
have to use common sense when applying surface conditioning discs to any metallic surface.
also, if you plan on using RTV, the correct way would be apply it and then immediately slam it together. Allowing it to dry and fill in the voids with the gaskets torqued and spread. Allowing it to dry first before assembly wouldnt work as well in my opinion
Last edited by WhiteFoxGT; Dec 22, 2017 at 02:04 PM.
If you really really really feel the need to use rtv, I would apply a very thin coat only to the gasket in the area of the coolant passage. Very thin, basically just enough so you could say that you used some. Allow it to dry and bond to the gasket before assembly.
So, I used a high temp permatex, in the pitting, put it all back together, installed a new water pump, new plugs too - Used distilled water, started right up -However, the check engine light is on now and it seems like one of the hoses to the plenum is flattening from a strong vacuum - any thoughts?
Take it to the part store and have it scanned, just could be some anti-freeze entered the cylinder during repair.
As far as the hose collapsing, Hmm there is only a couple of hoses that connect to the plenum, IAC hose, EVAP hose, EGR and HVAC. might be forgetting one check to see if they are soft and need to be replaced, post the code if you scan it.
I just have to ask are you confusing the heater hoses with plenum hoses? if the inlet and outlet heater hoses are switched the water pump could collapse the hose.
Just a WAG.
Thermostat in up side down, if that is even possible is an automatic/instant overheat, the point of the thermostat points up, spring goes down.
Thanks all, luckily I’m not confusing any parts, and they all go in one way lol -
So, check engine light is extinguished- good to go, may have been an anomaly? So, I got everything back in, Used a permatex liquid metal filler, high temp on those pitting sections. Low and behold, two days later, no leaks, except from one side of the fuel injectors which I didn’t have fully tightened- weird! And gas everywhere ( As I drove her yesterday to autozone to return a torque wrench )
Anyways, I still notice one of the vacuum hoses attached to the plenum is pulling a strong vacuum. Any ideas to these types of engines?
Originally Posted by WJL
I just have to ask are you confusing the heater hoses with plenum hoses? if the inlet and outlet heater hoses are switched the water pump could collapse the hose.
Just a WAG.
Thermostat in up side down, if that is even possible is an automatic/instant overheat, the point of the thermostat points up, spring goes down.
Vacuum from hose to plenum, and extra parts from intake manifold,
Just posting pics....
Anyways, I still notice one of the vacuum hoses attached to the plenum is pulling a strong vacuum. Any ideas to these types of engines? My step dad was saying it could be an old hose, however, I think it was put there for flexibility? Maybe a braided hose would prevent the collapse?
Plus a couple of extra parts from the intake manifold -
the strong vaccum?
Extra pieces from on-line order of intake manifold Driver side chassis, fuel injector, possible leak without spacers?
Well fella's thanks for all the tips and advice. The car ran great for those couple of weeks. I bought a new PCV and hose, and that seemed to work. Now I have a seperate possible clutch issue I will post in a seperate threat, but if you're reading this, he link, I posted it on you tube:
Vacuum from hose to plenum, and extra parts from intake manifold,
PCV Good togo
