ricke9590

Hey all chasing a wicked A/C problem. Here is a quick run down, any advice will help. 01 Bullitt

The A/C clutch engages when the car is turned on when you turn the car off it disengages. (this was the start) I changed the CCRM and enviro controls inside the car. Ive also swapped relays around. The high and low pressure sensors are new also. I have even swapped ECU's (I have a Pats disabled tuned one laying around).

Going forward from this I went ahead and refilled the system (car sat for a couple of years with no motor). It blows cold (of course the pump is on) but the fan would not kick on, so I wired the fan to run on low with the car on just to finish the servicing and to test. (car is currently configured this way)

After servicing I moved the car noticed it was blowing warm, I popped the hood and the compressor was disengaged. I moved the selector to vent from max ac and it kicked back on, went back to max ac it stayed on.

Driving the car the compressor seems to kick off (not just WOT) and at idle will come back on (going off temp that is blowing).

Literally at a loss right now, Ive been through every diagram I can find chased wiring but cannot find anything. It almost acts like a relay is sticking but I am having no luck finding it.

08'MustangDude

Of course it does, every car on the planet does... Maybe you mean something else?
You can't have A/C without a running engine turning the compressor via serpentine belt.

A/C systems are SEALED; the refrigerant does not get old, wear out, or get used. If you have
to put IN, then it is getting out.

Not sure on this car, but on hard acceleration, the A/C clutch is released so all available
HP can get to the wheels. Once the pedal hits a certain point, it kicks back on at
cruising. I have had a few cars that worked like that...

ricke9590

Actually no, you are completely missing the point. You turn the key on, the AC compressor clutch engages... and stays engaged, does not matter where the climate control is, if the engine is running etc. The key is on the clutch is engaged, until you move the car, then it turns off, not WOT, not even half, you put a load on engine and its off. No other car works this way.

And I dont know what your talking about the sealed system, I said I serviced it since the you know I said the motor was not in the car for a couple of years..... so I serviced it even tho it was having issues because the last pump burned up because I did not know it was staying engaged even tho it had nothing in it.

This is not a simple problem, its not even a slightly complex problem, this is a total wtf the system is work working backwards problem.

Derf00

Do you have manifold gauges to see what the readings are on the high/low sides? . That will let you see what's going on because it sounds like you have more than one problem.

You cannot leave a normally sealed system exposed to the elements for too long without contamination entering the system.

If the system was left open for the couple of years that the motor was out, the entire system is contaminated and will need a major overhaul (condensor, compressor, receiver drier etc).