Is this Exhaust complete?
#1
Is this Exhaust complete?
I have the SLP LM axle back. I'm looking at getting LT's and an O/R X pipe. When I look at the setups online it seems the X pipe won't make it to where my Axle backs start. There needs to be one more length of pipe that goes over the axle...... or am I missing something. I don.t want stainless exhaust all the way back except for a 3 foot long section all rusted and ****.
#2
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
A X pipe is called your mid pipe, which replaces from the headers to the pipe that goes over your axle. An axle back replaces the exhaust from the axle-back. (Hence the term) If you want to replace the pipe over your axle, I think some "cat-back" exhaust systems do just that.
#3
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
The mustang exhaust is 100% stainless (except for the headers) from the factory. You can install your longtubes and O/R X-pipe and simply reuse the factory overaxle pipes with no problems.
Generally speaking there isn't really a need to replace your over-axle pipes, though Borla (perhaps others?) do make aftermarket versions.
Generally speaking there isn't really a need to replace your over-axle pipes, though Borla (perhaps others?) do make aftermarket versions.
#4
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
The mustang exhaust is 100% stainless (except for the headers) from the factory. You can install your longtubes and O/R X-pipe and simply reuse the factory overaxle pipes with no problems.
Generally speaking there isn't really a need to replace your over-axle pipes, though Borla (perhaps others?) do make aftermarket versions.
The mustang exhaust is 100% stainless (except for the headers) from the factory. You can install your longtubes and O/R X-pipe and simply reuse the factory overaxle pipes with no problems.
Generally speaking there isn't really a need to replace your over-axle pipes, though Borla (perhaps others?) do make aftermarket versions.
Oh. and thanks for the info on the over the axle pipe. Didn't know it was a seperate piece.
#5
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
Mine also looked rusty but Im thinking I just need to get under there with a Brillo pad and clean it up, it might just have been really dirty.. or it could have been oxidized... although I didnt think stainless steel could rust?
#6
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel is not rust-proof, it is merely rust RESISTANT. Exhaust will always be tricky to keep rust-free (Even with stainless) becasue of the heat and the exposure to road chemicals such as salt.
Anyway, there are also various grades (alloys) of stainless. Some are more rust resistant than others. Chances are that the factory alloy is one of the less expensive inferior grades, but I don't know for certain.
I wouldn't worry about the factory stuff rotting out anytime soon. If you are really concerned, then get aftermarket components that are made of 304 stainless. I know Borla and Dynatech use this alloy, I am sure there are others too. 304 is one of the better stainless alloys. 320 is even better, but it is extremely expensive so I don't think you'll find any products made from that. The 409 alloy is cheaper, I think that is what JBA uses. I'd avoid that stuff if you can, it will rust much more readily than 304.
Anyway, there are also various grades (alloys) of stainless. Some are more rust resistant than others. Chances are that the factory alloy is one of the less expensive inferior grades, but I don't know for certain.
I wouldn't worry about the factory stuff rotting out anytime soon. If you are really concerned, then get aftermarket components that are made of 304 stainless. I know Borla and Dynatech use this alloy, I am sure there are others too. 304 is one of the better stainless alloys. 320 is even better, but it is extremely expensive so I don't think you'll find any products made from that. The 409 alloy is cheaper, I think that is what JBA uses. I'd avoid that stuff if you can, it will rust much more readily than 304.
#7
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
ORIGINAL: CrazyAl
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel is not rust-proof, it is merely rust RESISTANT. Exhaust will always be tricky to keep rust-free (Even with stainless) becasue of the heat and the exposure to road chemicals such as salt.
Anyway, there are also various grades (alloys) of stainless. Some are more rust resistant than others. Chances are that the factory alloy is one of the less expensive inferior grades, but I don't know for certain.
I wouldn't worry about the factory stuff rotting out anytime soon. If you are really concerned, then get aftermarket components that are made of 304 stainless. I know Borla and Dynatech use this alloy, I am sure there are others too. 304 is one of the better stainless alloys. 320 is even better, but it is extremely expensive so I don't think you'll find any products made from that. The 409 alloy is cheaper, I think that is what JBA uses. I'd avoid that stuff if you can, it will rust much more readily than 304.
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steel is not rust-proof, it is merely rust RESISTANT. Exhaust will always be tricky to keep rust-free (Even with stainless) becasue of the heat and the exposure to road chemicals such as salt.
Anyway, there are also various grades (alloys) of stainless. Some are more rust resistant than others. Chances are that the factory alloy is one of the less expensive inferior grades, but I don't know for certain.
I wouldn't worry about the factory stuff rotting out anytime soon. If you are really concerned, then get aftermarket components that are made of 304 stainless. I know Borla and Dynatech use this alloy, I am sure there are others too. 304 is one of the better stainless alloys. 320 is even better, but it is extremely expensive so I don't think you'll find any products made from that. The 409 alloy is cheaper, I think that is what JBA uses. I'd avoid that stuff if you can, it will rust much more readily than 304.
#9
RE: Is this Exhaust complete?
300 series stainless is generally considered to be very corrosion resistant.
400 series stainless is more prone to rust staining but generally will not rust as badly as plain steel.
300 series is usually non-magnetic due to its high nickel content while 400 series is magnetic due to its higher content of iron.
But also keep in mind that all stainless steels have different properties and one may be more flexible or stronger or more heat resistant than another.
Another tidbit is that on some stainless steels, when you weld them they change and can be more prone to rust at the weld. This is sometimes caused by too much heat being applied during the welding process or cheap stainless or the wrong filler rod.
400 series stainless is more prone to rust staining but generally will not rust as badly as plain steel.
300 series is usually non-magnetic due to its high nickel content while 400 series is magnetic due to its higher content of iron.
But also keep in mind that all stainless steels have different properties and one may be more flexible or stronger or more heat resistant than another.
Another tidbit is that on some stainless steels, when you weld them they change and can be more prone to rust at the weld. This is sometimes caused by too much heat being applied during the welding process or cheap stainless or the wrong filler rod.
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