Which short tube header is better? The JBA's cost more than the BBK's, but do they actually perform better? Are they better built? Are they worth the extra cost? If not, the BBK's seem like a great buy.

Also, I know that the Long tube headers make more power but I am not interested in effecting my emissions legality, not to mention the added cost. I'm only interested in the information pertaining to the short tube headers.

Thanks.

 

A majority of people on this website are going to tell you to go Long Tube. However from my experience I have BBK long tubes and they are well made and cheaper than JBA. I hope this helps

 

Ialso go through Emissions and this is why most Long tube manufactures sell an X/H with cats. I have the JBA with cats and it runs and sounds sweet. I wouldn't waste my time installing shorties for the little to no gains they achieve. Istalling headers on these cars are a bit tough and not fun. You're looking at about 8 hours for a one person job. Well that's what it took me with floor jacks and jackstands in my garage.

 

Thanks for the info guys. BFMacias, how long have you had your BBK's? Any problems with them yet?

Also, did either one of you have your car tuned after the header install?

 

I have had My BBK's for about 8 months now with absolutely no problems. I do recommend them based simply on the price. They are very well made with a nice thick flange and they don't stick out underneath the car. I didn't have to tune my car after installation (no check engine lights) however I would recommend it.

 

The JBA's have a thicker gauge steel they use for there headers. I talk to several different suppliers and they all told me that's why they cost a little more.

I got the uncoated headers and wish I had gotten the coated. They make alot of heat in the engine bay. The coating would be great and also look nicer in the long run.

 

Keep in mind you will need motor mounts when putting in the new headers. Steeda makes some prothane mounts and there are a few others too. You might as well by them both at the same time since the mounts have to be loosened/removed during the install.

If you don't get them, you will drive around and probably have no issues until you go around a corner and hear a strange vibrating noise. That would be the header hitting the frame rail. The solution is a firmer mount that prevents movement from side to side. It doesn't make your car vibrate strangely or become annoying.

 

I have the JBA Stainless Steel Shorties ($300. E-Bay), no issues whatsoever.

 

I did not have to buy new motor mounts. That might be JBA specifc.

 

First, you do not need new motor mount for JBA shorties. Second, thosewho say there is little or no benefit from all shorties, do not know what they are talking about.While itis true that LTssupport, and will achieve,higher HP, it is in the upper RPM range and at the cost of low end torque. I did extensive research on the shorties before deciding on the 1 1/2" JBA ceramic coated header, shorties from BBK, MAC and Hooker. The BBK and MAC, while better than the stock manifold have unequal length tubes. The JBA and Hooker shorties are made with equal length tubes which greatly aid in exhaust scavenging. The Hooker's in particular, and the JBA's as well,are designed to improve low end torque and HP. Both are capable of supporting mid to upper 400 HP applications. I eventually choose the JBA shorties for two reasons, (1) they came with1 1/2" tubes (which enhance even further, their low end torque production), and (2) they were available with the (more expensive) silver ceramic coating, which I could not get from the Hookers). Installwas relatively easy -I did mine by myself, in the driveway,with only ramps anda hydraulic floorjack - took me about 6 hours and 4 beers.