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cams and vortech non-intercooled...

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Old 12-31-2008, 01:31 PM
  #1  
stealth_GT
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Default cams and vortech non-intercooled...

would it be a good idea to run comp thumper cams with the vortech non-intercooled kit?

Being that boost will be limited, I am trying to get the most out of the powerband rather then just upping the boost..
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Old 12-31-2008, 02:49 PM
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Brian_Zinchuk
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What are you looking to do with your car? Track car? Street racing car?
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:09 PM
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Just a basic 400whp, bolt on car for this summer...

just another one of my ideas. I was just gonna do a few bolt ons but the price of the parts + installation would cost me around the same price at the vortech non-intercooled, but with alot less power to the wheels. Might as well bite the bullet and plan around the vortech.

high stall 3k TC
4.10s
delete plates
cut outs
race tune=

right around the same price as the vortech, only nets me around 35 whp if that..

)-:
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Old 12-31-2008, 07:11 PM
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howarmat
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400 hp bolt on is really hard to get too. There is no basic setup for it. It would take every bolt on possible to do it and its questionable how "streetable" it would be
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Old 12-31-2008, 08:53 PM
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lol I meant a 'bolt on' including the vortech to net the 400 whp mark, race tune, delete plates and cams..
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Old 01-01-2009, 01:21 AM
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Mudflap
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You'll make 400whp with the Vortech alone. Mine made 397 at only 5800rpm. According to Seth at Brenspeed, it would have made around 415~ to the wheels at 6500 (which is what they dyno to).
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:51 AM
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^^ in your opinion, do you think I would benefit from the cams? and would it change the power band some?
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Old 01-01-2009, 07:32 AM
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Stkjock
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cams will give more high rpm power, with a centri you dont need that as the boost keeps building with RPM. unless your gonna spin the motor to 7000+ no need for them IMO.

IMO better to take the cam money and buy the HO kit or install a Meth kit with the std version
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Old 01-01-2009, 10:37 AM
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I wouldn't bother with the cams. The car is already making at least 5 lbs of boost at higher RPMs (and around 8 when it nears redline) meaning there is no shortage of power up there. IMO take the money for the other mods and invest it into some gauges so you can be sure your setup is working. I spent nearly $700+ for my 3 gauges and the pod, etc. You could also go for the HO kit, but in my case I didn't want the extra power. Mine barely can get any traction now in first and second, and I only have the 3.31s. I was originally going to get 4.10s, but I no longer see a point and I'm glad I didn't get them... At this power level, the stock suspension seems to do ok, and the stock tires are barely able to hook at all. Any more than this, and I'm off having to spend another $1000+ which I'm just not willing to do ATM. Unless you are going to drag the car or track it, etc, the non-IC will be fine for you. Theoretically if you beat on it repetitively, heatsoak will set it and you'll pull timing / lose power. An intercooler will negate some of that. I don't go around doing that however, so its been a non issue for me so far. When its 110 degrees outside, I wouldn't beat on the car whether it was intercooled or not.

There isn't much lag with this kit IMO. When you nail it hard, the car responds and builds boost quickly. I bounced off the rev limiter the other day in second because it was pulling like a freight train and came up so fast. You can easily hit 60 in less than 5 seconds, I actually think its closer to 4 now. The only time any "lag" is noticeable is when you try and floor it in the wrong gear. For example if I'm going 40mph in 4th gear and punch it, yeah, it takes a long time to get any boost. I'd recommend getting the kit put on, THEN deciding what other mods you want. See how it is first, you might just wind up saving some money like I did because I've cut a few things off the mod list now after having it.

Last edited by Mudflap; 01-01-2009 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:21 PM
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Only go with cams after you inter cool it. You wont regret spending that extra k on the inter cooler.
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