wasvette

No question, gears....

Nuke

Gears. IMO, 3.73's if you do any sustained highway driving. And I'd do UDP's before the delete plates (less hassle). Also consider some suspension work so you can hook-up your additional power.

Don't sweat the stock exhaust. You won't gain any power with aftermarket axlebacks other than sound. The stock exhaust flows as well as aftermarket.

kotten148

from what i hear 4.10 are good, if you buy the 1 peice D/S i pretty sure you gonna have to get it balanced or there will be some vibration form it when you on the drive at high speed.

rivercitymike

I did all the mods mentioned in the above posts, one at a time. Keep in mind, I'm referencing my experience to a bolted N/A car. Unfortunately, I didn't have the car dynoed after each mod install, so this is based on my butt dyno. I only got a dyno tune after all my listed mods were installed. The performance increases for each mod listed below are in order of best to worse:
(1) aluminum flywheel
(2) 4.10 gears
(3) aluminum drive shaft
(4) UDPs
(5) CMCV deletes
In listing these mods, the aluminum flywheel and 4.10 gears both had similar gains in increasing acceleration. The 4.10s came in second place because they limit top speed and reduce highway fuel mileage. The aluminum driveshaft was a distant third. The UDPS and CMCV deletes were similar in performance gains. The UDPs beat out the CMCV deletes because they increase fuel mileage, not reduce it. But I'm sure my next two mods, Kooks LTs and Comp Stage II NSR cams will jump to the top of the list. After that, it's centri-blower time!

stealth_GT

gears!
Mods in SIG, for a mildly modded car it sure feels a hellua lot faster then it was stock... but then again, the stock auto was a slouch.

bah!

Touring

Wait till you get blown for the delete plates.

GotMunchies?

A 1 piece aluminum driveshaft has the benefit of reducing the rotational mass of the drivetrain. The benefit is quicker acceleration as the engine has less mass to try and rotate. A lighter flywheel and clutch help for the same reasons.

Unfortunately, a one piece shaft will have a natural frequency at much lower speeds than a two piece and such shafts typically vibrate at just above highway speeds. Any imbalance in the shaft creates a reciprocating force that creates large vibrations when the shaft rotates at its natural frequency. The better the balance of the shaft - the smaller the force and the less severe the vibrations.

So by all means, get a one piece, just make sure whoever made it has experience balancing shafts.

HaneyMotorsport.Com

+1 on that. And if it is a P.D. blower, you don't need to buy them at all. To me, they are not really worth it.......power to $$ ratio.

Casey

Pale Horse

Excellent, I appreciate everyones input!!! I will definately be doing gears right after intake, custom tune & O/R H pipe. Based on what I am hearing I will more then likely skip out on the CMCV Deletes for now. What is the general consensus on 3.73's or 4.10's. The only time the car will really be driven for a long period on the highway is the interstate on the way to the track (100mi) and the occasional trip. I would say 90% of the driving is in town. However, I have concerns of driving a long way to & from the track with 4.10's not so much a fuel mileage concern as the higher RPM concern. How high of an RPM do these cars run with 4.10's @ 75MPH?

avengence

4.10s at 75 is like 2700 RPMs. I would have to check to make sure though, it might be lower like 2600.