......

 

JD - if you got with a built block you'll need the 8 bolt FW and your clutch will not bolt up. you'll need to get a new clutch (you maybe able to swap the faceplate - but that is a guess on my part)

Tousley will give you the best price as mentioned above.

From my research in the past, if your not doing the assembly yourself, if more cost effective to buy a built block then to try and piece meal it together for a third party to put together.

 

So if I go the 8 bolt route, would I be correct in assuming the need for a flywheel like this:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ram-st...el-tr3650.html

Now I am not aware, does the clutch on a gt500 mount different from the GT? thanks for all the help guys.

 

actualy, after looking at specs site,
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Ford/Mustang/2008/Single

looks like I can just have them ship the 8bolt flywheel for my car, 299 in a 8 bolt pattern. Should be able to keep using my clutch.

 

a good clutch is like a nicely worn
shoe, it would be a shame to have
to change it.

so what's the plan now, are you still
thinking of buying a built short block
and assembling the motor at home.

 

So far the build would look like this:

Block: $1379
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9559

Rotating assembly: $1550
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...d_Pistons.html
or maybe the one you had in your post, can you link the rotating assemblies you found?

8 bolt flywheel from spec, for my application: $299
http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Ford/Mustang/2008/Single


Then from there take my stage 3 clutch and every other part I need off my stock block. Assemble myself, bring it to a shop and verify time + tune.

So there is nothing else inside my motor I should need to support up to around 600wrhp? Again, not building all out, just a reliable motor for that power level.

 

well the rotating assemblies i've always liked,
are from livernois and haneymotorsports.

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...t.phtml?p=1552

http://www.haneymotorsport.com/HMS%2...ing%20Kits.htm


when you start talking about 600rwhp, that
tells me you have to really start considering
things like piston material and bearing clearances.

 

wow, can elimate alot of guess work....
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...t.phtml?p=1551


You know, I used to know a lot more of this stuff when I was like 14 working in my brothers friends home garage on his mustang... to bad we dont know them anymore.... lol. The rotating assembly comes in two selection a standard and a .020. Now if I remeber right those are "20 over." on a new build I would select the normal, if I were going to rebuild my motor, i would go 20 over, send my block and have it honed to achieve the 20 over right? been a long time seance I talked like this....

 

you can't go wrong with that livernois
298.


yeah that's pretty much it. a used block's
cylinders may not be true anymore and the
only way to restore symmetry is to remove
some material.

 

wow, cant belive I remembered that. Could save some green, strip the block, bore it 20 over, get the livernois setup, assemble that, and call it a day. though do you think with only 7k miles on my motor, i could get away with the normal diameter pistons, maybe not even bore it at this point?