I am wondering about this setup from Stage 3 Motorsports:
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...ort_Block.html

What I want to know is this, aside from getting it timed and tuned, is it the kind of setup where I take my stock motor out, unbolt all accessories and heads, bolt em to the new one, reinstall and get timed and tuned? I know there are other things to consider such as probably wanting to get the GT500 pumps and a higher boost pulley for my saleen, but trying to get a idea for what else i would want to consider and projected costs that go with this project.

 

not sure about what all would be involved
and the costs, but my only concern would be
whether you would still be able to keep the
knock sensors. being s/c, it's nice to have
them, incase of bad gas, very hot intake air
temps, etc.

 

well it says its a modular storker block, so I would hope it could retain everything, but you never know until you do it I guess. At least thats another question for me to ask if I ever end up doing it.

 

Why not just go forged internals? Rods,Pistons,etc

 

pay 2k for the rotating assembly, then to have a shop tear down my motor, bore it, reassemble then start the time and tune. Gonna cost alot considering you can get the assembled block for 1k more, I would think would save you tons in labor.

 

elec water bump, arp studs kit, felpro head gast, mel oil pump, morso oil pan, windage tray.. pay estra money and get coated rod barings.. that should get you started.. oh ya coat the pistons to help pervent detnation

 

Well mike, I am sure all of that would help, but I'm looking at how to do a basic forged internals cheaper, not get every possible upgrade. I'm wanting to safely drop in the... probably the 13 PSI pulley and some cams on the stock heads, then to move over everything else I possably (safely) can from my stock assembly. I belive this setup is equivelent to taking my stock block into a shop, having them bore it for me and installing the rotating assembly then reassembling. I belive I can do everything but the boring of the block, so if I can get the parts off the old block and then onto the new block, then flat bed it to the shop and all they have to do is time and tune, I am thinking this would save me tons of money. Looking to probably get this car into the 550-600 RWHP range. MAYBE a little more then that, but this assembly is supposed to be good well past that range.

 

you realize its a Iron Block?

if you look at the bigger shop short blocks, for the most part, they only stroke to 298 to keep the knock sensors, my guess, this one you'd lose them


Get a Ford Aluminator for a blown application, 4000-4300 shipped, bolt right up, production block is the base for it.

 

if I wasnt going to get something like what i linked, i would probably get something like this:
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...d_Pistons.html

and pay to have a shop put it in. But that aluminator is a great alternative. Can you link the one that is for our application? Thanks for any help.

 

i think you would like this..
http://store.jpcracing.com/RGR-322-C...ock_p_304.html