Which supercharger is easiest to install
08-10-2010, 01:53 PM
#11
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08-10-2010, 02:05 PM
#13
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No, still running on the stock pump. With the large pulley and a conservative tune, no additional fuel is needed "yet". But I have a 3.5 inch pulley along with a CAI that will be going in the same time as the pumps.
I guess temps are relative, but having multiple weeks now of high 80 degree weather along with much higher than normal humidity, to me it is hot
I guess temps are relative, but having multiple weeks now of high 80 degree weather along with much higher than normal humidity, to me it is hot
08-10-2010, 02:07 PM
#14
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Yeah, sorry. The plug and play on the M90 is for the '10's only.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-...ercharger.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-...ercharger.html
08-10-2010, 02:09 PM
#15
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wow, that's nice...I never knew (though haven't done too much R&D on the Eforce) that even under the most conservative tune/application a stock pump would hold up...Good to know...AND your at 422/394! Nice ride...
08-10-2010, 02:49 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: North Pole
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Unfortunately, I live so far up north that these suckers explode under extreme cold weather, so I will have to take mine on off before every winter and then back on every summer. I'll even have to wait until late April because we have snow all the way up til then lulz Trust me when I tell you that the initial install is the most time consuming but it is VERY easy. http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...%20Ford%20Cars
The base kit @8 psi is rated at 380whp on 93 octane, but I have seen people get them dynoed in to 420, even 450whp with cams. I make only about 380whp on a good day, but about 360, maybe lower, due to only having 90 oct up here, and being a auto.
+1...something about cutting/splicing I just don't like...I'm considering the V3, non IC'd version, but am not sure about the boostapump (ummm, no) and have no idea about the gt 500 system, which would be MY only option...I dunno...I keep going back and forth on this...Just leave it @ 300whp and call it good or go for 400...Someone on here a while back made the statement that (a centri) he couldn't even use "most" of the boost during city driving...After second or third you're either getting a ticket for over 100 mph or hitting the cars in front of you...i don't and wouldn't track mine, so the dilema continues...
The centri is VERY drivable.. most of the time, you won't even be in boost, and if you are (during most daily driving speeds), but barely even nicks the boost before you let off. I have an auto, so it's very "on/off" like a volume **** in terms of acceleration. I can be cruising at 1200 rpm, go WOT and be at nearly full boost in the blink of an eye (4.10s). Honestly, most of the time I don't even go into boost. When I do, it pulls effortlessly to red-line without hesitation, except for the tires not always being able to handle it.
Some don't like that and rather have the low end grunt. Twin screws, roots and TVS kits are much more suited for that person. They'll most likely think the CF is "gutless", because it really doesn't have the pull in the lower RPMs like a twin screw/Roots does.
300whp is a good amount of hp.. but the nearly 400 I have now has been more than enough for me this summer.
It's more involved than the Vortech V3 non-itnercooled, but you DO get an intercooler, which is worth the extra work!
Last edited by stealth_GT; 08-10-2010 at 03:04 PM.
08-10-2010, 04:19 PM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: PR
Posts: 329
No, still running on the stock pump. With the large pulley and a conservative tune, no additional fuel is needed "yet". But I have a 3.5 inch pulley along with a CAI that will be going in the same time as the pumps.
I guess temps are relative, but having multiple weeks now of high 80 degree weather along with much higher than normal humidity, to me it is hot
I guess temps are relative, but having multiple weeks now of high 80 degree weather along with much higher than normal humidity, to me it is hot
If I can work out a deal with Brenspeed and get him to knock off a few hundred bucks off his kits (I have a tuner already), I think Edelbrock have got themselves another sale.
And thanks for the link, Stealth.
08-10-2010, 04:28 PM
#19
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WI
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They can probably provide whatever you want, but any deviation from their staged kits would require a custom dyno tune. Even my canned tune from Edelbrock for my base kit had initial issues as it was running very lean for my car and was subsequently dyno tuned to make it a bit more safe.
08-10-2010, 04:54 PM
#20
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 462
Let me start by saying that if you have a problem cutting and soldering a wire or two, a supercharger install is probably NOT for you.
I did the Kenne Bell myself, and not only did I find it exceptionally easy, I enjoyed the heck out of it. Even so, there were a few moments where I was ready to take it to a shop because I just didn't see how I could do whatever it was asking and make it work right. The Kenne Bell instructions are extremely detailed with over 550 steps and pictures for almost every one of them. Any auto mechanic would probably have laughed at my moments of frustration, and in the end I looked back in realization of how simple it was.
I can't vouch for any other supercharger, because I have only personally installed the one. There are a few wires to solder together, and one small harness to pin, which is easy if you have a pin crimping tool, which I happen to have. I did have to buy a few tools, including a set of metric hex head sockets and a torque wrench, but considering how often I felt I would be using them, Harbor Freight was a cheap way to get them. My tool collection consists of most of what I had when I was a car stereo installer for 10 years, a few things my father passed down to me about 20 years ago, and a whole lot of woodworking tools, most of which were little help. Basically, a good set of open end and box wrenches, a good ratchet, a breaker bar, a full set of sockets, the aforementioned hex head (and eventually rounded hex head) sockets and the torque wrench, a couple screwdrivers, and a lot of rolls of paper towels are all you should need. I guess a soldering iron, some solder, and some heat shrink, along with a roll of good electrical tape is a must as well.
In the Kenne Bell kit, you don't have to modify the alternator at all, just move it. You do have to relocate the windshield washer pump, and I guess you need something to cut a little sheet metal (I used a small air saw). Unwinding a lot of tape from wire harnesses to move the TAC and TPS wires was time consuming, and splicing in the new IAT sensor plug and pinning the new plug for the MAF was pretty straightforward. You do have to add a relay for the intercooler pump, but it is all prewired except for the accessory wire you tap into a readily available wire right under the hood. I used a BAP, and that is about as easy as it gets to wire up, with only one wire to run to the back for the switch. A GT500 pump would be pretty straightforward, with a power wire going to the back and a couple harnesses to run and some wires to move, but as I said I was a professional 12 volt guy back in the day, so that stuff is pretty darn easy to me.
The hardest parts were disconnecting the coolant lines from the heater core.. that one took me a while, and I didn't think I would get it without breaking one of the connectors, something that would have cost me dearly in labor and parts, and then figuring out the routing for some of the coolant lines for the intercooler, which was more an excercise in perspective as the pictures were from underneath. That one took me a while to figure out, and in the end I did my own thing anyway because there was a newer pump than the instructions showed and the way the hoses were routed in the directions led to some issues there.
Realistically, it was like putting together a really big model without any of the pieces labeled, and the hardest part was finding room to organize and identify all the pieces and parts. You had to learn how to identify screws based on their description, too, which was a little bit of a challenge sometimes since they mostly came in bags with lots of different ones in the same bag.
All said, it took me about 30 hours and my son helped a little here and there, and I did need help dropping the supercharger on in the end..
I think the Edelbrock looks a lot more simple than any others, but I don't think any of them are really that hard. All it takes is patience and the ability to follow directions very closely while not missing any details. You miss something and you will either be scratching your head at some point, or the car won't run right when you are done. You don't want either of those.
I did the Kenne Bell myself, and not only did I find it exceptionally easy, I enjoyed the heck out of it. Even so, there were a few moments where I was ready to take it to a shop because I just didn't see how I could do whatever it was asking and make it work right. The Kenne Bell instructions are extremely detailed with over 550 steps and pictures for almost every one of them. Any auto mechanic would probably have laughed at my moments of frustration, and in the end I looked back in realization of how simple it was.
I can't vouch for any other supercharger, because I have only personally installed the one. There are a few wires to solder together, and one small harness to pin, which is easy if you have a pin crimping tool, which I happen to have. I did have to buy a few tools, including a set of metric hex head sockets and a torque wrench, but considering how often I felt I would be using them, Harbor Freight was a cheap way to get them. My tool collection consists of most of what I had when I was a car stereo installer for 10 years, a few things my father passed down to me about 20 years ago, and a whole lot of woodworking tools, most of which were little help. Basically, a good set of open end and box wrenches, a good ratchet, a breaker bar, a full set of sockets, the aforementioned hex head (and eventually rounded hex head) sockets and the torque wrench, a couple screwdrivers, and a lot of rolls of paper towels are all you should need. I guess a soldering iron, some solder, and some heat shrink, along with a roll of good electrical tape is a must as well.
In the Kenne Bell kit, you don't have to modify the alternator at all, just move it. You do have to relocate the windshield washer pump, and I guess you need something to cut a little sheet metal (I used a small air saw). Unwinding a lot of tape from wire harnesses to move the TAC and TPS wires was time consuming, and splicing in the new IAT sensor plug and pinning the new plug for the MAF was pretty straightforward. You do have to add a relay for the intercooler pump, but it is all prewired except for the accessory wire you tap into a readily available wire right under the hood. I used a BAP, and that is about as easy as it gets to wire up, with only one wire to run to the back for the switch. A GT500 pump would be pretty straightforward, with a power wire going to the back and a couple harnesses to run and some wires to move, but as I said I was a professional 12 volt guy back in the day, so that stuff is pretty darn easy to me.
The hardest parts were disconnecting the coolant lines from the heater core.. that one took me a while, and I didn't think I would get it without breaking one of the connectors, something that would have cost me dearly in labor and parts, and then figuring out the routing for some of the coolant lines for the intercooler, which was more an excercise in perspective as the pictures were from underneath. That one took me a while to figure out, and in the end I did my own thing anyway because there was a newer pump than the instructions showed and the way the hoses were routed in the directions led to some issues there.
Realistically, it was like putting together a really big model without any of the pieces labeled, and the hardest part was finding room to organize and identify all the pieces and parts. You had to learn how to identify screws based on their description, too, which was a little bit of a challenge sometimes since they mostly came in bags with lots of different ones in the same bag.
All said, it took me about 30 hours and my son helped a little here and there, and I did need help dropping the supercharger on in the end..
I think the Edelbrock looks a lot more simple than any others, but I don't think any of them are really that hard. All it takes is patience and the ability to follow directions very closely while not missing any details. You miss something and you will either be scratching your head at some point, or the car won't run right when you are done. You don't want either of those.