About to do header install
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 243
From: Oklahoma
Indeed! I'd love to be able to tell you all the problems you may run into, but it's just impossible to say. On my 2008, I didn't run into a single issue that wasn't included in the instructions. No broken bolts, nothing stuck, etc. I was either lucky, or maybe these cars just don't often have those problems, I don't really know.
So far I am loving my BBK's. The only downside I could find really, is that you have to buy a flanged end shorty midpipe to match the headers, or you have to have something custom done. The longtubes extend well beyond where the cats would go, and what is left is a very short stretch from the headers to the point where the factory h-pipe would band clamp onto the rest. It really doesn't look like there is any room for even aftermarket cats to go. Might be wrong though. And this may be a characteristic of all LT's, I don't know, these BBK's are the first I ever installed on any car. I'd be happy to snap a photo of the underside of my car in the morning if you'd like. They are quality parts, no leaks, everything was perfect, and if you do get their midpipes, they bolt DIRECTLY into what remains of your factory exhaust, headache free. Otherwise it's gonna be an open header run to an exhaust shop to get them to custom rig something. (Though perhaps someone else here knows another alternative part that would do?)
I got ceramic, personally. This is the exact set I ordered...
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ce...ders-2005.html
Can't go wrong with stainless. My ceramics look great as well, like I said I'd be happy to show you top and bottom in the morning if you want to see how they fit/look installed. It is going to be quite a job, can't even lie about it. But it's well worth it, and a buddy or two is going to make it a LOT easier on you.
So far I am loving my BBK's. The only downside I could find really, is that you have to buy a flanged end shorty midpipe to match the headers, or you have to have something custom done. The longtubes extend well beyond where the cats would go, and what is left is a very short stretch from the headers to the point where the factory h-pipe would band clamp onto the rest. It really doesn't look like there is any room for even aftermarket cats to go. Might be wrong though. And this may be a characteristic of all LT's, I don't know, these BBK's are the first I ever installed on any car. I'd be happy to snap a photo of the underside of my car in the morning if you'd like. They are quality parts, no leaks, everything was perfect, and if you do get their midpipes, they bolt DIRECTLY into what remains of your factory exhaust, headache free. Otherwise it's gonna be an open header run to an exhaust shop to get them to custom rig something. (Though perhaps someone else here knows another alternative part that would do?)
I got ceramic, personally. This is the exact set I ordered...
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ce...ders-2005.html
Can't go wrong with stainless. My ceramics look great as well, like I said I'd be happy to show you top and bottom in the morning if you want to see how they fit/look installed. It is going to be quite a job, can't even lie about it. But it's well worth it, and a buddy or two is going to make it a LOT easier on you.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,015
From: GA
Indeed! I'd love to be able to tell you all the problems you may run into, but it's just impossible to say. On my 2008, I didn't run into a single issue that wasn't included in the instructions. No broken bolts, nothing stuck, etc. I was either lucky, or maybe these cars just don't often have those problems, I don't really know.
So far I am loving my BBK's. The only downside I could find really, is that you have to buy a flanged end shorty midpipe to match the headers, or you have to have something custom done. The longtubes extend well beyond where the cats would go, and what is left is a very short stretch from the headers to the point where the factory h-pipe would band clamp onto the rest. It really doesn't look like there is any room for even aftermarket cats to go. Might be wrong though. And this may be a characteristic of all LT's, I don't know, these BBK's are the first I ever installed on any car. I'd be happy to snap a photo of the underside of my car in the morning if you'd like. They are quality parts, no leaks, everything was perfect, and if you do get their midpipes, they bolt DIRECTLY into what remains of your factory exhaust, headache free. Otherwise it's gonna be an open header run to an exhaust shop to get them to custom rig something. (Though perhaps someone else here knows another alternative part that would do?)
I got ceramic, personally. This is the exact set I ordered...
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ce...ders-2005.html
Can't go wrong with stainless. My ceramics look great as well, like I said I'd be happy to show you top and bottom in the morning if you want to see how they fit/look installed. It is going to be quite a job, can't even lie about it. But it's well worth it, and a buddy or two is going to make it a LOT easier on you.
So far I am loving my BBK's. The only downside I could find really, is that you have to buy a flanged end shorty midpipe to match the headers, or you have to have something custom done. The longtubes extend well beyond where the cats would go, and what is left is a very short stretch from the headers to the point where the factory h-pipe would band clamp onto the rest. It really doesn't look like there is any room for even aftermarket cats to go. Might be wrong though. And this may be a characteristic of all LT's, I don't know, these BBK's are the first I ever installed on any car. I'd be happy to snap a photo of the underside of my car in the morning if you'd like. They are quality parts, no leaks, everything was perfect, and if you do get their midpipes, they bolt DIRECTLY into what remains of your factory exhaust, headache free. Otherwise it's gonna be an open header run to an exhaust shop to get them to custom rig something. (Though perhaps someone else here knows another alternative part that would do?)
I got ceramic, personally. This is the exact set I ordered...
http://www.americanmuscle.com/bbk-ce...ders-2005.html
Can't go wrong with stainless. My ceramics look great as well, like I said I'd be happy to show you top and bottom in the morning if you want to see how they fit/look installed. It is going to be quite a job, can't even lie about it. But it's well worth it, and a buddy or two is going to make it a LOT easier on you.
Did you replace the studs with the split locks like HACKJOB stated? What are the odds of breaking a stud off in the head while removing..
Last edited by 99gtstang; Sep 22, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,015
From: GA
I just installed LT's & O/R X myself a month ago. No lift, on the garage floor with a creeper & 4 jack stands as high as they'd go, and a fellow MF'r for assistance. Its a day long PITA but well worth it. The 13mm flex wrench was a great purchase. I didn't have a trans cradle so I used floor jack with a bunch of folded up cardboard and raised the engine about an inch. No issues. I removed the battery, both engine mounts, starter, oil dipstick & disconnected the steering shaft. Some say to move the AC compressor but I didnt. Soak the manifold bolts with PB blaster & remove the factory midpipe the night before you start. One less thing to do the day of & saves some aggravation. Make sure you can reinstall the dipstick with the header on or do them at the same time.
After the install I ended up putting the Pypes cat kit in due to horrible trumpeting. I reused the stock manifold gaskets/fasteners and I cant get the leaks to stop. Percy gasket, copper sealant, and Split Lock bolts should be here tomorrow and are going on this weekend. I also ordered some heat shielding because the cats are cooking my feet when I drive for more than 15-20 min. Maybe they run hotter due to cams or its just their nature. I dont know. But they heat the floorboard up quite a bit.
And heres a couple of threads I reviewed.
Installed my Kooks LTs and catted X pipe
Headers and studs?
Long tubes install tools needed?
I was surprised the cams were so easy. But I was way more stressed out installing them than any other mod I've done.
After the install I ended up putting the Pypes cat kit in due to horrible trumpeting. I reused the stock manifold gaskets/fasteners and I cant get the leaks to stop. Percy gasket, copper sealant, and Split Lock bolts should be here tomorrow and are going on this weekend. I also ordered some heat shielding because the cats are cooking my feet when I drive for more than 15-20 min. Maybe they run hotter due to cams or its just their nature. I dont know. But they heat the floorboard up quite a bit.
And heres a couple of threads I reviewed.
Installed my Kooks LTs and catted X pipe
Headers and studs?
Long tubes install tools needed?
I was surprised the cams were so easy. But I was way more stressed out installing them than any other mod I've done.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 181
From: TX
As for the studs, with Pypes LT's I had to replace a couple of them on the drivers side with bolts. I didn't have any problems. I think I used a 4 or 5mm socket and they came right out.
What I should have done is drilled the bolts for safetywire like we do at work.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BL-p4lhe3V...spinner5-w.jpg
Last edited by Hack Job; Sep 22, 2011 at 11:35 PM.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 243
From: Oklahoma
Yep, I would buy the same brand mid pipe which ever direction I go. Thanks for offering the undershot, seen a few. Hate for you to do that lol I hate getting under the car period.
Did you replace the studs with the split locks like HACKJOB stated? What are the odds of breaking a stud off in the head while removing..
Did you replace the studs with the split locks like HACKJOB stated? What are the odds of breaking a stud off in the head while removing..
I replaced everything using the hardware included in the BKK kit. I've put about 1,200 miles on it since then (road trip!) and I have no leaks, nothing has backed off at all. Just from my experience on my car.... It had 34,000 miles on it when I installed, and not a single bolt or stud even acted like it was going to break when I took them out. They started out tight, then came out/went in as they should. It's a b*tch to get at some of them though. I'd say as long as you're using the proper tools for the job, and take your time, you're not going to run into a lot of problems. Someone said it best in a post I saw recently... I've never seen a thread about a header install end up as "got started on it and had to have it towed to a shop to get it finished". It's not very hard, you're directly replacing parts with new parts, but it is very, very slow and tedious. (at least alone! I can easily see it moving faster with a buddy or two)
Last edited by OhEightGT; Sep 24, 2011 at 07:56 AM.
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,015
From: GA
Hey it's no trouble at all! Just let me know if you want a few.
I replaced everything using the hardware included in the BKK kit. I've put about 1,200 miles on it since then (road trip!) and I have no leaks, nothing has backed off at all. Just from my experience on my car.... It had 34,000 miles on it when I installed, and not a single bolt or stud even acted like it was going to break when I took them out. They started out tight, then came out/went in as they should. It's a b*tch to get at some of them though. I'd say as long as you're using the proper tools for the job, and take your time, you're not going to run into a lot of problems. Someone said it best in a post I saw recently... I've never seen a thread about a header install end up as "got started on it and had to have it towed to a shop to get it finished". It's not very hard, you're directly replacing parts with new parts, but it is very, very slow and tedious. (at least alone! I can easily see it moving faster with a buddy or two)
I replaced everything using the hardware included in the BKK kit. I've put about 1,200 miles on it since then (road trip!) and I have no leaks, nothing has backed off at all. Just from my experience on my car.... It had 34,000 miles on it when I installed, and not a single bolt or stud even acted like it was going to break when I took them out. They started out tight, then came out/went in as they should. It's a b*tch to get at some of them though. I'd say as long as you're using the proper tools for the job, and take your time, you're not going to run into a lot of problems. Someone said it best in a post I saw recently... I've never seen a thread about a header install end up as "got started on it and had to have it towed to a shop to get it finished". It's not very hard, you're directly replacing parts with new parts, but it is very, very slow and tedious. (at least alone! I can easily see it moving faster with a buddy or two)
Thread Starter
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,015
From: GA
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 181
From: TX
FWIW I didn't have any problems either. I broke the nuts loose and then switched ratchets and pulled the studs out with the nuts still on to save time.
I know a lot of folks on here have reused the stock gaskets or no gasket or whatever but do youself a favor and install quality new ones. Its a total pain to remove the headers after the fact and swap gaskets. Really, its cheap insurance against future headaches. Also consider locking bolts or jamnuts to be safe. And dont forget antisieze on the fasteners either way.
I know a lot of folks on here have reused the stock gaskets or no gasket or whatever but do youself a favor and install quality new ones. Its a total pain to remove the headers after the fact and swap gaskets. Really, its cheap insurance against future headaches. Also consider locking bolts or jamnuts to be safe. And dont forget antisieze on the fasteners either way.