wayne613

If you did, then you should be playing the lottery rather than fooling around with this (ultimate ****ty-luck scratch and lose edition). The odds of your original dieing, then 2 more, all with same issue...ya, they're waaaay up there.

i'd yank the battery + terminal, wait 15mins, spray electrical contact cleaner on the pins, and harness openings, on both the PCM and alternator ends/pins, see if that has any effect. Best way, one side at a time, so you know which harness you'll need to replace, should it start working right again. Still use sparingly on PCM pins (as it could still short a few pins that house flash data). Assuming just this fiddling around didn't give it decent contact again.

Have you gone WOT (Wide open throttle) for 4 seconds on the road, then viewed voltage? Have you even viewed the voltage level when it is running yet?

E15 (marked it wrong first time and the pic is wrong, my bad, was in a hurry to get my coffee and used the body/cowl one instead of the engine, just pretend it's the wider one, just 3rd one in from that side, I don't wanna go out in the rain again, I could melt):

dbernotus

I have 13.7 V at the battery with no load and 13.6 with a load while its running. WOT I get 13.7 V. I put an alternator in and it is running fine, no check charging system warning. I do have DTC P1000 on my tuner though. It did this last time with the first alternator I put in and it went bad.

dbernotus

Make that 13.3 V running with no load and 13.2 V with a load. The more I run it the more the voltage drops.

moosestang

It should be 14+ volts. Do you have some massive audio system?

dbernotus

No. Every upgrade I have done has been mechanical. I pulled the + cable and the V reset to 14 and started going down to 13.6 after 5 minutes. It held pretty steady there.

dbernotus

Its so weird. I just left the + cable and now its running at 14.16 V. Then it very slowly drops to somewhere around 13.6.

Blacksmoke

The year models 07-09 are NOTORIOUS for bad alternators.
In fact Ford changed alternator models four times I believe (three or four), before they found the alternator that worked properly and did not fail.

Now.. if you have an aftermarket alternator I can imagine you could easily run into problems too. For some reason the alternator in these models seems to be something the car is nit-picky about.
That is why I would advise going to Ford to get a replacement.

Ford got this problem fixed and they have the correct alternator that will perform
properly and will not give you problems.
Might see if you can return the alternator if it is aftermarket telling them is is faulty then go to Ford and get the new updated one that works like a charm.

wayne613

The ONLY thing they changed was the regulator. It's not that picky, as there is no difference between a rebuilt one and a FORD parts dealer rebuilt unit, same updated Motorcraft regulator used. Not to mention he's on his 4th now (give it a few days, it'll be 5). I've had zero problems with either after-market unit I've bought. People exchange out for an autozone rebuilt one all the time, zero issues..

dbernotus

It almost seems like the alternator from Auto Zone isn't strong enough to keep up. I orderd a PA on Friday.... should be here tomorrow morning. All my buddies with S197 have PA and they swear by them. Had no choice but to go with the Auto Zone due to the holiday weeekend

wayne613

Still doubtin' it, I hope it pans out for you of course, but I'd still bet solid money something else is amiss. Did you test the output of the other before you yanked it for the 4th now?

The units tend to cook themselves where they're mounted by default, but even with a drained battery I can't see blowin' through 3 units. If you upgrade you're still left with redoing the cables all over again if you go to the 200A unless you actually increased the gauge wiring when you redid it before.