dbernotus

I replaced the ground cables on the battery, the cable to starter and fusebox, cable from alternator to battery, and checked all wiring associated with the alternator. Once I found that YW/LB wire on the PCM I rang them all out. From the plug at the alternator I got .4 ohm for both yellow wires to the PCM and Open to ground for all three wires. The OG/LB wire tracks the battery voltage at the fusebox like it should. I haven't blown any fuses or melted the fusible 8A link either. I agree with you, there maybe another issue. Today is my third alternator and its dropping V the longer it runs. I just don't know where else to turn. I am going to use contact cleaner on all pins and plugs tonight and see what that does for me. I'm going to put in the new 130A PA I ordered tomorrow and if I start to experience problems I am going to take it in to get the PCM checked out.

wayne613

One thing I didn't think of until I just replied in another thread... Did you pull the bolt on the passenger side that holds down the 2 PCM grounds and clean up the contact points on them (and the washers themselves)? Small bit of sandpaper works best. It's the furtherest one away from the radiator cover, the other is for fogs lights should you have them.

dbernotus

Yes. I cleaned all ground contact points in engine bay.

wayne613

Bummer. Well, keep us updated with what occurs tomorrow, and beyond.

One last one...Engine ground (not the frame one up top, but near the starter that's a PIA to get to)?

dbernotus

Yea. I pulled all new #2 gauge from the battery to the following :

(+ cable) : starter,fusebox,and alternator
(- cable) : Ground by starter and ground in engine bay

I cleaned connection any ground I found in engine bay or on chassis. I thought at first I had a bad ground, not alternator. After changing battery circuit cables and cleaned grounds I still had same problem.I also have a brand new battery that holds 12.5 V with headlights on and car off, so I know battery is good. Also like I said earlier in posts I have good continuity on all control wires and Open to ground on all of them. I'm an Electrical Engineer and do not believe in swapping parts just because changing them doesn't cure problem. I have spent three days ringing wires,replacing possibly bad cables, and cleaning connections. Still the same problem. The only reason I think it is an alternator problem is the alternator starts strong and drops VDC overtime, starts to whine while dropping, and gets burning hot. I'm just wondering now if I'm getting weak alternators from the major chains. I went through three from Auto Zone in two days on my 2011 Challenger, so I wonder if I'm reliving the same nightmare again.

Anyway,thanks sooo much for all the help and quick responses Wayne613. I got some very useful diagrams and advice from you today. Thanks very much. I will post tomorrow after new install.

Blacksmoke

Never had an aftermarket one but glad to hear no issues.
The thing is that they had to change the alternator three or four times before they found one that did not have problems. That seems to me either the cars are picky, or Ford did not do well when changing up the alternator lol.
Again.. Like I said before glad to hear the aftermarket ones are working.

wayne613

2g, nice. I ditched the engine factory ground when I redid my own and did one off the back of the alternator itself, as it cuts down the potential noise, and any extra overall strain on the alternator.

I've seen a few have 1 bad one from one place or another, but never 3. Many a thread with a chain-bought replacement which worked fine, but it's still possible....good luck.

wayne613

Yep, only thing that changed was the regulator assembly (view 3:48 in):
[youtube]BkL5BdFLsMg[/youtube]

All, after-market or OEM use the same assembly..Think there are 2 other companys that makes them, but the 3 I've seen personally where all exactly the same motorcraft one. The rectifier is the only difference, normally only in the capacity of the diodes for the higher amperage units. Otherwise those are likely the same as well. I would guess you are either extremely unlucky in that instance, or they missed something they either didn't see, or wish to admit..

dbernotus

-It was the alternator. I put my PA 130A alternator in Tuesday morning and the car is running like its brand new. I idle at 14.5V steady
-I took apart the old alternator, on Tuesday at work, from Auto Zone and the Voltage Regulator was the wrong one for my car. I then called O'Reilly's and asked them for the alternator back I returned on Monday. Took that apart too, same part as Auto Zone. I called Ford with the regulator part number and they said it was wrong. These stupid a** stores stocking the wrong parts and acting like it wasn't their fault I had all these problems. I had to take a vacation day on Thursday because I couldn't even make it to work, due to the alternator.

I WILL NEVER BUY ANYTHING FROM AZ, AAP,PB, OREILLY, OR ANY OTHER MAJOR STORE. From now its only AM,Steeda,etc for me.

wayne613

Sorta good news. Good to hear you got it resolved finally though.

Still a bit difficult to believe you could get 3 inept places to get one from in a row. Let me know where you are during the next thunderstorm, I wanna be at least 100ft away.