deltafool117

So my clutch is being replaced for the first time on my 06 mustang gt. It is at 112K miles. One of my best friends owns a shop/dealership and we will be doing the work ourselves.

So I have been looking at the clutch kits on American Muscle...comparing with ebay and such. The brands I am leaning towards are Exedy and Spec, stage 2 or stage 3 (supporting up to 512 ft-lb torque) because there may be supercharging in my car's future, also wanting the more street friendly clutches since I do not take my car to the track.

Anyway, the bulk of my need for advice is what else do I need to/should change while I am in there.

Slave Cylinder? Master Cylinder? Flywheel (alum vs steel)? How much to resurface flywheel? etc etc...

Diabolical!

Change the slave, clutch, flywheel and (because you have so many miles) I'd replace the flywheel bolts as well. My vote goes to McLeod's RST/RXT clutch kits. Also, do some research on what it takes to get the transmission out and back in on these cars. The TR3650 is a ridiculously tight squeeze and it's a pain in the *** getting it in and out. You will likely need to loosen the motor mounts or lower the K-member to get at it. I've done my clutch twice (on jack stands) and if I ever have to do it again, I will be ditching the TR3650.

Justinsmt88

You can get new flywheel and pressure plate bolts with Loctite already applied for 15 each set from late model restoration. I am doing an auto to manual swap and bought an exedy stage 3 with an exedy slave and a new flywheel. Stage 3 says 700hp rating a bit overkill but hell won't have to worry about it for awhile. Lol

moosestang

I'd stick to a stage 2 for the most street friendly. My spec 3+ can be perfectly smooth, but you have to be perfectly smooth on your release and gas. I'm refering to an easy start at low rpms, like in a traffic situation.

Replace the flywheel and I'd go with a billet steel over aluminum, especially if you all ready have a lightweight one piece drive shaft. Trying to lighten the drive line too much on these cars adds lots of vibration or rather reveals vibration that was all ready there.

AMWill

OP,

I agree with going for a Stage 2 Exedy clutch. It's designed to hold up to 510 ft-lbs of torque and it has nice easy clutch pedal. You won't mind getting caught in traffic anymore than you did with a stock clutch!

Replacing the flywheel, slave cylinder, and flywheel bolts is a good idea, too. You can resurface your stock flywheel, but with 112k miles,I'm sure it has some decent wear on it. I like to start fresh, in order to get the perfect amount of clearance from the clutch to flywheel. This helps prevent any kind of chattering noises and vibrations.

Let me know if you have any questions that I can help with!

Shane

JCON

You cannot beat this deal (I think):

http://www.281motorsports.com/index....oducts_id=1706

$40 for a Mc Leod - Street Performance Clutch. I may buy one just as a spare as I don't plan to push over 450rwhp.

Diabolical!

That looks like it's just the friction disc. Still, hell of a deal, especially if it will work with the stock pressure plate.

deltafool117

What about the master cylinder?

Diabolical!

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

kevinmalec

When my slave cylinder/throw out bearing went out, I had the shop replace everything, except for the master cylinder.