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mustang bullitt 2008 engine dies on idle

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Old 07-21-2014, 05:50 PM
  #11  
alam
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Thankfully the issue was solved. As I expected the problem was caused by the maf sensor. After trying another sensor I saw no difference so I thought about checking the connector itself. The wire which supplies the power to the sensor was the shot. I traced it back to the fusebox and discovered that an electrical short in the fusebox caused this wire to loose its power supply. So I checked the fusebox and every fuse worked and no issues with anything else but this particular wire. The guy I took that car for connected this wire to the wire that supplies power to the injectors and the issue was fixed. He guaranteed that there is no need to replace the fusebox since now the maf sensor takes its power from the injectors line and that has a fuse already and also everything else works . What do you think guys ? I mean what caused that short in this specific wire ?
Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:49 PM
  #12  
Simon1
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Originally Posted by alam
Thankfully the issue was solved. As I expected the problem was caused by the maf sensor. After trying another sensor I saw no difference so I thought about checking the connector itself. The wire which supplies the power to the sensor was the shot. I traced it back to the fusebox and discovered that an electrical short in the fusebox caused this wire to loose its power supply. So I checked the fusebox and every fuse worked and no issues with anything else but this particular wire. The guy I took that car for connected this wire to the wire that supplies power to the injectors and the issue was fixed. He guaranteed that there is no need to replace the fusebox since now the maf sensor takes its power from the injectors line and that has a fuse already and also everything else works . What do you think guys ? I mean what caused that short in this specific wire ?
Thanks.
A possible answer is that there was nothing wrong with the wire, the fuse or the sensor, but rather the connection in the fuse box. It is very difficult to test. The reason why is when you test a fuse while installed in the fuse box, you put pressure down on the fuse causing it to usually make a good or better connection. Or if you test without the fuse with an OHM meter, you get a good connection and everything tests fine. The problem arises when the tension on the connection (they are slightly preloaded to pinch the fuse) gets relaxed or bent on one or both slots. You can test it by putting some tin foil on one or both forks of the fuse and insert the fuse and see if the issue goes away. If it does, you can either bend each fork slightly to create more tension, leave the foil on (not recommended) or drip a small amount of soldier on each fork.

The only reason I know this is because it happened to me. For tow months I chased an electrical gremlin and finally gave up. I took it to a shop and the guy figured it out and explained it. What pissed me off is that I knew that circuit was the problem and that the connection had stretched. I just wasn't smart enough to figure out the solution. $400 later, a fuse, 10 hours of fuel, and a piece of tin foil later, I got my car back.
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