Flushing the stang.
06-23-2006, 12:29 AM
#12
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 1,175
RE: Flushing the stang.
Yep, it kept overheating and while we were trying to figure out what it is we found oil in my antifreeze, which is obviously a cracked block. BUT. we put stop leak in before we found the oil in my antifreeze. its just a drop or 2, but the stop leak we used had some crazy looking stuff in it and we think that could be it. But i know i definetly need a new radiator. And im hoping its nothing big, i just found a nice S10 EXTREME : )
06-23-2006, 07:39 PM
#13
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 101
RE: Flushing the stang.
My car has about 120k miles on it, pretty much stock. Previous owner let it sit for 3 YEARS. I decided to check the radiator about 3 months in, I would have sworn I had mud, not coolant running through the lines. I spent probably 25+ hours over a week filling it with water, driving it, and draining it out of the radiator. After that, it was still coming out like mud. It wasn't until I put a back flushing tee in that it finally came clean. I had to run it with the backflush tee and even with that, engine running, heat on, it ran for almost an hour and a half. Now that it is clean, car runs much cooler (took out the 195 and put in a 180). If you decide to do it, definitly put a good rust inhibitor back in when you refill.
06-23-2006, 07:42 PM
#14
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
RE: Flushing the stang.
I wouldn't recommend using any products to 'Flush' out your engine. They usually cause leaks in an otherwise non-leaky car because they may cause the seals to shrink. Just do an oil change at 500 mile intervals for 1500 miles. It will get a lot of junk out.
06-23-2006, 07:54 PM
#15
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: THE AlbuCrackie,NM
Posts: 843
RE: Flushing the stang.
Ok...
The Bilstien Engine flush machine is great. If the person using it knows how to do it. I have done it at work several times. I would say around a hundred. It is a great service, but don't expect the world from it. It is great for removing small metal particles..i.e, after rebuilding a motor and running it for about 500 miles. It does remove some crap. But if there is a bunch of junk in there, it probably won't get it all out. Good oil change practices are the only way to keep it clean.
If you are considering "flushing" the motor out, look at getting some Naptha and use that instead. Almost 96% of the fluid used in the Bilstein solution is made primarily from this. Naptha is much cheaper and you could probaly even use one of the "off the shelf" products made from Gumout or one of those guys.
You will see the same results as paying someone $99 to do it for you. (Words of a Service Tech....)
Rear end takes 75w90 or 80w90 (GL5). (We use mostly Synthetic 75w90 at work.)
Manual Transmission takes Dexron III, you can put Synthetic in it for better life/protection.
Radiator takes any Etheylene Glycol based antifreeze (50/50 mix)
Good luck to you,
Ivan
The Bilstien Engine flush machine is great. If the person using it knows how to do it. I have done it at work several times. I would say around a hundred. It is a great service, but don't expect the world from it. It is great for removing small metal particles..i.e, after rebuilding a motor and running it for about 500 miles. It does remove some crap. But if there is a bunch of junk in there, it probably won't get it all out. Good oil change practices are the only way to keep it clean.
If you are considering "flushing" the motor out, look at getting some Naptha and use that instead. Almost 96% of the fluid used in the Bilstein solution is made primarily from this. Naptha is much cheaper and you could probaly even use one of the "off the shelf" products made from Gumout or one of those guys.
You will see the same results as paying someone $99 to do it for you. (Words of a Service Tech....)
Rear end takes 75w90 or 80w90 (GL5). (We use mostly Synthetic 75w90 at work.)
Manual Transmission takes Dexron III, you can put Synthetic in it for better life/protection.
Radiator takes any Etheylene Glycol based antifreeze (50/50 mix)
Good luck to you,
Ivan
06-24-2006, 01:25 PM
#16
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 1,175
RE: Flushing the stang.
ORIGINAL: Bad Karma
Ok...
The Bilstien Engine flush machine is great. If the person using it knows how to do it. I have done it at work several times. I would say around a hundred. It is a great service, but don't expect the world from it. It is great for removing small metal particles..i.e, after rebuilding a motor and running it for about 500 miles. It does remove some crap. But if there is a bunch of junk in there, it probably won't get it all out. Good oil change practices are the only way to keep it clean.
If you are considering "flushing" the motor out, look at getting some Naptha and use that instead. Almost 96% of the fluid used in the Bilstein solution is made primarily from this. Naptha is much cheaper and you could probaly even use one of the "off the shelf" products made from Gumout or one of those guys.
You will see the same results as paying someone $99 to do it for you. (Words of a Service Tech....)
Rear end takes 75w90 or 80w90 (GL5). (We use mostly Synthetic 75w90 at work.)
Manual Transmission takes Dexron III, you can put Synthetic in it for better life/protection.
Radiator takes any Etheylene Glycol based antifreeze (50/50 mix)
Good luck to you,
Ivan
Ok...
The Bilstien Engine flush machine is great. If the person using it knows how to do it. I have done it at work several times. I would say around a hundred. It is a great service, but don't expect the world from it. It is great for removing small metal particles..i.e, after rebuilding a motor and running it for about 500 miles. It does remove some crap. But if there is a bunch of junk in there, it probably won't get it all out. Good oil change practices are the only way to keep it clean.
If you are considering "flushing" the motor out, look at getting some Naptha and use that instead. Almost 96% of the fluid used in the Bilstein solution is made primarily from this. Naptha is much cheaper and you could probaly even use one of the "off the shelf" products made from Gumout or one of those guys.
You will see the same results as paying someone $99 to do it for you. (Words of a Service Tech....)
Rear end takes 75w90 or 80w90 (GL5). (We use mostly Synthetic 75w90 at work.)
Manual Transmission takes Dexron III, you can put Synthetic in it for better life/protection.
Radiator takes any Etheylene Glycol based antifreeze (50/50 mix)
Good luck to you,
Ivan
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