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Should I just get an LS1?

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Old 07-22-2006, 04:39 PM
  #31  
stanger88
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

Cam timing is just fine, as stated, 20 miles before the carb swap I roasted my first LS1 F-body in a race that we both called fair (pulled over and talked) and I am sure the mechanic did not retard my cam during the swap for ****s and giggles, lol

I bet your fox weights 3500# with gas and you in it too, if not, maybe you should eat more : P The car dry is about 3250# (I have a lot of re-enforcement and a TKO500, which is heavier than a T5) I weigh 195# dressed (not a fatty, I just enjoy the gym) and with me and 11 gallons of gas, teh car tipped in at 3540# at a set of DOT weight scales (I was 185 then). So, subtract about 6 gallons of gas and you have roughly 3500# or so.

Yes, the carburetor sucks major *** and I am putting a 575 mechanical on it. I currently have the lightest spring offered (well, there is a lighter one, speical order that opens them fully 100rpm sooner...doesnt matter).

I am opposed to FI because it would cost over 3K to do a turbo or SC on a carbureted 5.0.

I am opposed to juice because I have a problem putting a cutting torch on my pistons (N20 is basically teh same formula you will find in your garden variety cutting torch setup). Its safe--its better than "it used to be--it is good cheap power--I DONT CARE. I dont want it, i want a car that runs 13.4 or so on street tires at 103 or better and I think that this setup with the right carb should do it without any more help.

THe motor was built by the new defunct Central Coast Mustang, who went out of business due to new management's poor business ethics with their suppliers after 25 years of success, it was run into the ground in under 1 year. THe motor was rated at 340bhp and they dynoed one JUST LIKE IT (remember, this motor is made from ford parts, so its more of an assymbled motor than something THEY BUILT, so it should be VERY uniform with its brethren) ata 290whp/292wtq. with a T5 tranny and EFI setup.
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:42 PM
  #32  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

If this helps any, I raced my friend twice from 60 mph, once I was in 3rd, once I was in 4th. He pulled the same amount at the same rate reguardless. My power band is peak-less and after 3K it feels the same until redline almost. I belive this is my primaries maxing out after 3K and the secondaries opening a negligable amount. The 670 SA series just sucks from what I hear of those who have them or have tried them. I knwo a guy who gained 3 mph on his wife's BONE STOCK 82' fox by going from a 670SA to a regular 600 vac. holley. I expect much from this 575 BG.
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:43 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

Why did you get rid of the LS1 in the first place? You may have answered it already, but I'm too lazy to read back through it.
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:46 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

Haha, you missed it, it was a 95 TA and while it pulled LS1's from a dig it did NOTHING for me from a roll. I enjoy roll races, so shoot me. 0-50 I could hold em off, after that they walked me
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:40 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?


ORIGINAL: stanger88

IMHO GM owns at this point, I have spent 15K to get ALMOST as fast as my old trans am was. Let alone an LS1. I am majorly pissed at ford for making such a nutless car. Again, if this carb fixes it, all is forgiven, but imho the 05 GT's are lacking about 50 rwhp, I used to sell them and thought the interiors were VERY nice, handling was VERY wallowy, but the car WAS stable, the engine just lacked the hp/tq to move the new HMS Mustang the way it needed to be (read: to be as fast or faster than GM's comparable product of 8 years ago)
Assuming you're not just a troll trying to stir up trouble, the problem is not the fact your car is a Mustang, the problem obviously is YOU. My brand new 1988 GT ran the times you're running with just 3.27 gears and no other mods. Heck, my stock 01 Bullitt would've blown you away. With the money you've spent, I could've easily had your car running 10's. The problem is one of the following:

1. You've badly mismatched your mods. For example, getting rid of the EFI was a big mistake, IMHO.
2. Something's horribly, horribly wrong with your engine.
3. You (or your mechanic) doesn't have a clue on how to build an engine.

Sorry if this doesn't help you, but you are bad-mouthing a proven car with a proven engine. The problem has nothing to do with the fact that your car is a Mustang, or that it has the Blue Oval on it. And if you just want to bash Fords, well you came to the wrong place.

I would recommend that you sell your car and go back to your "chick-magnet" T/A...
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:58 PM
  #36  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

An E cam with GT40 heads isn't going to be impressive...it should run quicker than what he's turning, but it's not gonna be spectacular. I've tried and tried to tell you guys this, Foxbodies are great cars, but they're NOT cheap to make go REALLY fast. Wanna put a car in the 12-13 second range, they're great, wanna go faster....well, it's gonna cost. The only cheap thing is the car itself.
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:00 PM
  #37  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?


ORIGINAL: King Cobra


ORIGINAL: stanger88

IMHO GM owns at this point, I have spent 15K to get ALMOST as fast as my old trans am was. Let alone an LS1. I am majorly pissed at ford for making such a nutless car. Again, if this carb fixes it, all is forgiven, but imho the 05 GT's are lacking about 50 rwhp, I used to sell them and thought the interiors were VERY nice, handling was VERY wallowy, but the car WAS stable, the engine just lacked the hp/tq to move the new HMS Mustang the way it needed to be (read: to be as fast or faster than GM's comparable product of 8 years ago)
Assuming you're not just a troll trying to stir up trouble, the problem is not the fact your car is a Mustang, the problem obviously is YOU. My brand new 1988 GT ran the times you're running with just 3.27 gears and no other mods. Heck, my stock 01 Bullitt would've blown you away. With the money you've spent, I could've easily had your car running 10's. The problem is one of the following:

1. You've badly mismatched your mods. For example, getting rid of the EFI was a big mistake, IMHO.
2. Something's horribly, horribly wrong with your engine.
3. You (or your mechanic) doesn't have a clue on how to build an engine.

Sorry if this doesn't help you, but you are bad-mouthing a proven car with a proven engine. The problem has nothing to do with the fact that your car is a Mustang, or that it has the Blue Oval on it. And if you just want to bash Fords, well you came to the wrong place.

I would recommend that you sell your car and go back to your "chick-magnet" T/A...

[sm=smiley32.gif] couldn't of said it better

and when i think about it, what the heck is this doing in S&S anyway ? ...off to 5.0 tech you go
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:05 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?


ORIGINAL: 98LS1

An E cam with GT40 heads isn't going to be impressive...it should run quicker than what he's turning, but it's not gonna be spectacular. I've tried and tried to tell you guys this, Foxbodies are great cars, but they're NOT cheap to make go REALLY fast. Wanna put a car in the 12-13 second range, they're great, wanna go faster....well, it's gonna cost. The only cheap thing is the car itself.
ehh, true if you want to do it right and have a good street warrior... but i've seen guys in the 10s under 10k including the car, not saying the car was still a good daily driver though. but all it should take is a major diet, some suspension work, slicks, cheap H/C/I and a decent shot will do the trick.
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:11 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?

Yes, well, as I edited my post above, and it never would go through, I know this. I've seen gutted "race" cars run stupid quick with just a h/c/i swap and a huge shot. They also only last for a few passes and then need to be rebuilt. I've NEVER seen one do it with the stock unit in the rear, nor a T5...unless it was proshifted with all the good stuff. Most are C4's. In other words, it's not as cheap as many make it out to be. Just like seeing a cam/nitrous LS1 run single digits. Trust me, he didn't just swap a cam and throw some gas at it. It takes some lightening, suspension out the kazoo, awesome tuning, many many track passes to get dialed in, usually an aftermarket tranny/rear....all the stuff that cars need to go fast. It's the same for any car. Most fast Cobra's have a solid axle/aftermarket poweradder/auto.....it's always the same.
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:11 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: Should I just get an LS1?


ORIGINAL: 98LS1

An E cam with GT40 heads isn't going to be impressive...it should run quicker than what he's turning, but it's not gonna be spectacular. I've tried and tried to tell you guys this, Foxbodies are great cars, but they're NOT cheap to make go REALLY fast. Wanna put a car in the 12-13 second range, they're great, wanna go faster....well, it's gonna cost. The only cheap thing is the car itself.
And I'm sure you've built and raced many fox bodies over the years, right?

For $15K (the money he claims he spent on the car), I guarantee you can get a fox body to run high 10's-low 11's, maybe even better. I happen to be related to a Championship-winning FFW car builder and I assure you it can be done.

On the other hand, if you go with the stock block and try to keep the car 100% streetable, then it begins to get much more difficult, which is what I imagine you're referring to...

But 14.4's??!! That's only a couple of tenths faster than stock! Something doesn't jive with his story...[>:]
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