Should I just get an LS1?
07-22-2006, 09:15 PM
#41
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: King Cobra
Assuming you're not just a troll trying to stir up trouble, the problem is not the fact your car is a Mustang, the problem obviously is YOU. My brand new 1988 GT ran the times you're running with just 3.27 gears and no other mods. Heck, my stock 01 Bullitt would've blown you away. With the money you've spent, I could've easily had your car running 10's. The problem is one of the following:
1. You've badly mismatched your mods. For example, getting rid of the EFI was a big mistake, IMHO.
2. Something's horribly, horribly wrong with your engine.
3. You (or your mechanic) doesn't have a clue on how to build an engine.
Sorry if this doesn't help you, but you are bad-mouthing a proven car with a proven engine. The problem has nothing to do with the fact that your car is a Mustang, or that it has the Blue Oval on it. And if you just want to bash Fords, well you came to the wrong place.
I would recommend that you sell your car and go back to your "chick-magnet" T/A...
ORIGINAL: stanger88
IMHO GM owns at this point, I have spent 15K to get ALMOST as fast as my old trans am was. Let alone an LS1. I am majorly pissed at ford for making such a nutless car. Again, if this carb fixes it, all is forgiven, but imho the 05 GT's are lacking about 50 rwhp, I used to sell them and thought the interiors were VERY nice, handling was VERY wallowy, but the car WAS stable, the engine just lacked the hp/tq to move the new HMS Mustang the way it needed to be (read: to be as fast or faster than GM's comparable product of 8 years ago)
IMHO GM owns at this point, I have spent 15K to get ALMOST as fast as my old trans am was. Let alone an LS1. I am majorly pissed at ford for making such a nutless car. Again, if this carb fixes it, all is forgiven, but imho the 05 GT's are lacking about 50 rwhp, I used to sell them and thought the interiors were VERY nice, handling was VERY wallowy, but the car WAS stable, the engine just lacked the hp/tq to move the new HMS Mustang the way it needed to be (read: to be as fast or faster than GM's comparable product of 8 years ago)
1. You've badly mismatched your mods. For example, getting rid of the EFI was a big mistake, IMHO.
2. Something's horribly, horribly wrong with your engine.
3. You (or your mechanic) doesn't have a clue on how to build an engine.
Sorry if this doesn't help you, but you are bad-mouthing a proven car with a proven engine. The problem has nothing to do with the fact that your car is a Mustang, or that it has the Blue Oval on it. And if you just want to bash Fords, well you came to the wrong place.
I would recommend that you sell your car and go back to your "chick-magnet" T/A...
Me...considering I nor my mechanic built nothing, we assembled it. Maybe you have a reading comprehension problem but the motor is a crate motor. It does not have an E cam in it either. This combo should be running low 13's or high 12's on a slick all day long. So dont blame ME when it doesnt work. I did not built the motor, nor did my mechanic, nor does it seem to have anything horridly wrong with it. It purrs like a kitten and has great compression. It used to kill LS1's. I will have the new carb on it monday and should HOPEFULLY be back to LS1 slaying.
If I could get an LS1 TA for what i could make off this car, trust me, I would. However, the price for a built 5.0 around here is quite dismal.
Lol, you have inspired me to get this thing running well enough to rape your Bullit like the high 13 second car it is (assuming no mods) THANKYOU SIR FOR THE INSPIRATION
PS, my combination has been proven time and time again, its nothing "pieced togather" its a FMS combination pretty much with VERY slight deviation. Yes EFI is more efficient than carb, but I like the way the car behaves (minus the wrong carb and its power loss) with the carb much better.
07-22-2006, 09:20 PM
#44
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: King Cobra
And I'm sure you've built and raced many fox bodies over the years, right?
For $15K (the money he claims he spent on the car), I guarantee you can get a fox body to run high 10's-low 11's, maybe even better. I happen to be related to a Championship-winning FFW car builder and I assure you it can be done.
On the other hand, if you go with the stock block and try to keep the car 100% streetable, then it begins to get much more difficult, which is what I imagine you're referring to...
But 14.4's??!! That's only a couple of tenths faster than stock! Something doesn't jive with his story...[>:]
ORIGINAL: 98LS1
An E cam with GT40 heads isn't going to be impressive...it should run quicker than what he's turning, but it's not gonna be spectacular. I've tried and tried to tell you guys this, Foxbodies are great cars, but they're NOT cheap to make go REALLY fast. Wanna put a car in the 12-13 second range, they're great, wanna go faster....well, it's gonna cost. The only cheap thing is the car itself.
An E cam with GT40 heads isn't going to be impressive...it should run quicker than what he's turning, but it's not gonna be spectacular. I've tried and tried to tell you guys this, Foxbodies are great cars, but they're NOT cheap to make go REALLY fast. Wanna put a car in the 12-13 second range, they're great, wanna go faster....well, it's gonna cost. The only cheap thing is the car itself.
For $15K (the money he claims he spent on the car), I guarantee you can get a fox body to run high 10's-low 11's, maybe even better. I happen to be related to a Championship-winning FFW car builder and I assure you it can be done.
On the other hand, if you go with the stock block and try to keep the car 100% streetable, then it begins to get much more difficult, which is what I imagine you're referring to...
But 14.4's??!! That's only a couple of tenths faster than stock! Something doesn't jive with his story...[>:]
MY setup is good for low 13's, high 12's on a slick and when I find the kink in this hose and fix it, it should do just that. As to what cost me all the money? Well, i get tired of seeing busted *** fox's all over the place so the first thing I did was have everything re-done on the car that could possibly go wrong (Tq box welded up with re-enforcements, subframes, replaced window motor gears, on and on and on with little stuff). I also had the driveline setup to take 4500rpm clutch drops on slicks all day long if I so desired, read: welded axle tubes, and the above mentioned uni-body mods. Every possible wear-related part on teh car was replaced. THis is not some beater with a motor under the hood, if I wanted that, I could have gone 10's for around $3,000 after the car was bought, just but some AFR's, a juice cam, and a 150 shot and a standalone FMU and fuel components. I didnt like that idea though. I wanted a car that performed like I think it should have off the lot in 88'. I wish I knew how to post a few pix for you guys.
07-22-2006, 09:26 PM
#45
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: 5.0stanger
Maybe I am stepping out, but GT40 P heads don't like a ton more than .500 lift, and running a X303 cam and those heads might be a start to your problems.
Maybe I am stepping out, but GT40 P heads don't like a ton more than .500 lift, and running a X303 cam and those heads might be a start to your problems.
THe car ran great up to 6200rpm EFI, I was dead even with a Z3M, lost by 1 car 50-85 to a C5 A4 vette, and pulled a 00' A4 Z28 by 1 car 75-105. I still think that its the carb as my friends aluminum headed TFS with comp cam 5.0 only ran 101 traps at 13.9 with my carb setup.
GT40P heads increase flow up to .600 lift (although after .520 they peter out BIG TIME) However...PI heads flow 180 while GT40P's flow 200.....I dont think the heads are my problem, I agree 110% that I could have BETTER heads, but there are 5.0 motor'ed cars in the 10's with P heads on them. Pick up MMFF and there is one on the inside cover, he used mostly stock parts as well.
I am not trolling, i am 10X more pissed than you could ever be about this. I am the one who spent the money and did everything right (except the carb wich will HOPEFULYL remedy the problem monday when I swap it out). So before you call troll on this, just put yourself in my place, having taken advice from numerous engine builders, selected a PROVEN motor that was even reviewed in an MMFF article, and run the times I have, see if you wouldnt vent a little too...
07-22-2006, 09:40 PM
#47
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
i think u need a new driver mod if u can only run 14.4 with basicaly a brand new built motor
yeah sure blame the car but fact is i bet if u let someone (who can drive) drive it would be in the low 13s
stock 5.0 notches can pull better than a 14.4 right off the showroom floor
ur doing something AWFULLY wrong...
btw ur TA needs 5.7L to run those times whereas ur little 5.0 should be raping that T/A
yeah sure blame the car but fact is i bet if u let someone (who can drive) drive it would be in the low 13s
stock 5.0 notches can pull better than a 14.4 right off the showroom floor
ur doing something AWFULLY wrong...
btw ur TA needs 5.7L to run those times whereas ur little 5.0 should be raping that T/A
07-22-2006, 09:45 PM
#48
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: lookinforastang
i think u need a new driver mod if u can only run 14.4 with basicaly a brand new built motor
yeah sure blame the car but fact is i bet if u let someone (who can drive) drive it would be in the low 13s
stock 5.0 notches can pull better than a 14.4 right off the showroom floor
ur doing something AWFULLY wrong...
btw ur TA needs 5.7L to run those times whereas ur little 5.0 should be raping that T/A
i think u need a new driver mod if u can only run 14.4 with basicaly a brand new built motor
yeah sure blame the car but fact is i bet if u let someone (who can drive) drive it would be in the low 13s
stock 5.0 notches can pull better than a 14.4 right off the showroom floor
ur doing something AWFULLY wrong...
btw ur TA needs 5.7L to run those times whereas ur little 5.0 should be raping that T/A
My TA also got 25 mpg, but engine size is a moot point, I dont own a civic and so I dont use hp/L arguments. If ANYONE out there can run low 13's trapping 97.8 mph, then let them be my guest. My 60' was 2.15, not great at all, but not costing me a second either.
07-22-2006, 09:46 PM
#49
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1
RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: stanger88
Me...considering I nor my mechanic built nothing, we assembled it. Maybe you have a reading comprehension problem but the motor is a crate motor. It does not have an E cam in it either...
Lol, you have inspired me to get this thing running well enough to rape your Bullit like the high 13 second car it is (assuming no mods) THANKYOU SIR FOR THE INSPIRATION
PS, my combination has been proven time and time again, its nothing "pieced togather" its a FMS combination pretty much with VERY slight deviation. Yes EFI is more efficient than carb, but I like the way the car behaves (minus the wrong carb and its power loss) with the carb much better.
Me...considering I nor my mechanic built nothing, we assembled it. Maybe you have a reading comprehension problem but the motor is a crate motor. It does not have an E cam in it either...
Lol, you have inspired me to get this thing running well enough to rape your Bullit like the high 13 second car it is (assuming no mods) THANKYOU SIR FOR THE INSPIRATION
PS, my combination has been proven time and time again, its nothing "pieced togather" its a FMS combination pretty much with VERY slight deviation. Yes EFI is more efficient than carb, but I like the way the car behaves (minus the wrong carb and its power loss) with the carb much better.
Maybe you have a problem with reading comprehension, but I never said anything about an E cam. Furthermore, I no longer own the Bullitt (or the 88 GT for that matter). I now own a low 11-second 03 Cobra, so if you want to "rape" my Bullitt you'll have to talk to the new owner.
But let me get this straight: Your car used to be fast, but now it isn't. And you're not using the factory motor, you're using a crate motor, yet you insist on blaming Ford because your car, which used to "kill LS1's" doesn't get the job done anymore?
Perfectly Logical...[&:]
07-22-2006, 09:47 PM
#50
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RE: Should I just get an LS1?
ORIGINAL: FiveLiterRiceEater
pull that damn holley off and get a demon 650.
pull that damn holley off and get a demon 650.
I called Barry Grant and they recommended a 575 Speed Demon for my hp (340bhp) and my displacement and rpm range. It will arrive monday and be put on same day.