Help Me With Re-Build
My 5.0 engine just hit 145,000 miles.
I know it's time for a re-build, but I dont realy know where to start.
I want to rebuild it, but make it more powerful, with more performance parts. But I dont really know where to start or how much im talking about spending.
I was considering boring it over. But I dont know how much or what is a safe point. I dont wanna weaken the engine at all.
I know I should get a stronger oil pump.
And I've been reading around and see things about gt40 components what are they and why r they better?
Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!
I know it's time for a re-build, but I dont realy know where to start.
I want to rebuild it, but make it more powerful, with more performance parts. But I dont really know where to start or how much im talking about spending.
I was considering boring it over. But I dont know how much or what is a safe point. I dont wanna weaken the engine at all.
I know I should get a stronger oil pump.
And I've been reading around and see things about gt40 components what are they and why r they better?
Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!
how much power you wanting to make? you could go with a forged bottum end, stronger and costs more, or just get cheap parts. tell us what you are wanting to do, then i could tell you what parts to use.
need to get the block machined if your doing a rebuild, a .030 bore is fine (8-10 bucks a cylinder) and get everything checked (magnafluxed, to check cracks). if your looking to go cheap summitt usually overs a decent kit with pistons, rings, bearings, etc for a good price. i've always like Melling oil pumps and your dont necessarily have to get a high volume, lot of people say you should. not sure what you want to do with the heads, but putting a set of cast 351 heads on a 302 will make it scream.
As far as the oil pump - like WNDSOR said - you don't necessarily need one. I myself would never use one unless I was replacing the pump on an engine and not doing a rebuild. You won't know if you need an overbore until teardown. You are running stock forged pistons - which I would try to re-use if you can - so I would try to get away with just a hone and new rings, bearings, seals, and gaskets. If I were you, and on a budget, I would do what I just typed. I would also do some port work on the exhaust side of you heads - namely removing the smog humps which would net you around 15 - 20 hp at higher rpms.
Then I would, assuming your not modding too much or plan on doing any thing radical in the future, put a FMS E cam. Once again if your on a budget and your stock lifters are not making any noise or showing any major wear - I'd reuse them.
For about $150.00 (including rings and an oil pump) + $200 for the camshaft = $350.00 for a refreshened engine making probably 40 - 50 more hp than you had before the rebuild.
I can tell you that if this is your first engine, DO NOT do it without at least the help of someone more experienced. Seriously.
Then I would, assuming your not modding too much or plan on doing any thing radical in the future, put a FMS E cam. Once again if your on a budget and your stock lifters are not making any noise or showing any major wear - I'd reuse them.
For about $150.00 (including rings and an oil pump) + $200 for the camshaft = $350.00 for a refreshened engine making probably 40 - 50 more hp than you had before the rebuild.
I can tell you that if this is your first engine, DO NOT do it without at least the help of someone more experienced. Seriously.
I agree with all that you say - except that roller lifters are pretty much exempt from that guidline :P They don't develope the wear pattern between lifter and cam that non-rollers do. As a matter of fact try finding any wear pattern on the lobes of a roller cam - even with 145k miles.
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