Stang_SHO

Just got a 302 out of a 77 bronco. few questions before the rebuild.

He said that one of the freezeplugs was leaking is that fixable at the machine shop whent he block is beign prepped ?

1977 is that 28.8 oz balance or is it still 50 oz ?

being out of a brono will it be much diff then a mustang 302 ? anything ill have to change over ?

thnx

hellas85stang

ok i have a 70 yr 302 outta truck i done up in my stang will bolt up fine you will need 5.0 mounts tho... freez plugs are easy...shop can do it or u...77 is a 28 oz 302 wentto 50 oz i think in 82-84 i think somewheere in there..you will need a 5.0 oil pan with a hump in middle ...and either a 5.0 timing cover or u will have a lil trouble with checkin oil on ya dip stick...since 2 sumps on 5.0 ur dip will only check one..so either 351 i think with a side oil elect sender on pan and mount in 302 pan...OR likw me i just drain mine every other month...

Stang_SHO

bump for more info. I have now dissassembled the motor and am having the heads and block takin to a shop to be cleaned, etc
should i have it takin to 306 ? if i do that can i use the stock pistons that came in it ? what size rebuild kit parts wil i need? .30 over ?

what heads are on this engine, i am not buying alu heads yet, are these worth having just rebuild and cheapo port job or are they going to be worthless ?

i want a lumpy cam, that will idle but be very noticable, which should i go with ?

i need to replace the pushrods and rockers, which aftermarket kind do i need to work with these heads ? size ?

intake manifold , im looking for power 1500-6000 this is a going to be a nasty streetcar which carb intake is a wise choice.

carb ? i know nothing of carbs. with the rebuilt ive described what kind and size of carb will i need ?

im not worried about emmissions or gas milage.

what size wheels do i need so i can upgrade my brakes. i cant spend 1300 on 13' 8 piston brake kits but would like a good set of slotted and drilled rotors larger then stock and 2 piston calipers that will fit my car.

the car is a 88 lx 4 cly original.

cheap place for street slicks and some cheapo drag rims to put them on ? what is an average size of rim and tire ?


sorry so many questions just tryin to get as much info and planning done as possible while buying parts. thank you for reading and any suggesions are very welcome.

88stangaruu

0.30 over is good.

The heads are kinda worthless in 77, the chambers are larger, everything is pretty bad about them. Find some GT40's and have them ported, those will be worth your time.

Lumpy cam, Go with a custom cam, the 77's arnt roller blocks. Coverting will be exspensive and you'll be forced to run a smaller base circle cam in which the ramp speeds are crazy and you'll have to run some pretty crazy spring pressures to control the valves. So i'd just go with a custom cam. Or an Isky cam, they make lots of flat hydrulic cams and are very good grinds. Lots of power with them.

For an intake, go with an Edelbrock RPM or an Air gap, or a Weiland Stelth Ram. Both are good in that rpm range.

For a carb. A 600 Demon or 600 Holley is great and all you need. An older holley 4150 is a great carb for a street car. They flow 600cfm and are available from Summit rebuilt or Ebay.

As far as rims, on an 88' Notch like i have...Gotta love the Draglites...aint nothin like some draglites on a Racing mustang. Some 4" skinnies up front and some 8-9 inch rims out back with maybe some 275's. You can usually get Draglites from the paper for about $400 for a whole set and you can get them in 4 lug pattern which is nice.

Stang_SHO

how cost effective is a dual carb set-up for street use ? worth th extra money ? hard to tune and install ??

mrbigshot

it depends. if you are looking at a tunnel ram (big area between the carb and the intake base) than you will make more power than most duel plane single carb setups. they also produce mucho torque. they are hard to tune though as the carbs can be very picky with changes. if you are talking a street duel carb setup like the edelbrock than avoid it, it makes less power (proven) than there performer rpm intake. its use is limited due to the fact that above 4500 rpm they tend to go lean as there is not enough area for the fuel air mixture and it ands up clouding above the carbs. not good.

tunnel ram, good for 2500+ rpm. excelent torque production and can produce up to 20hp more than a duel plane intake (or a street single plane like the torquer)



the edelbrock f-28 duel carb low rise. looses power and torque compared to the performer rpm or victor intake, limited usage range (2000rpm-4500rpm before fuel delivery problems arise) bad choise for racing, good choise for street rods (as thats what they designed it for)

Stang_SHO

thanks for the info on the dual carbs i guess i will do more research on it when i get more to the top of the rebuilt motor.

im looking for a few new parts off ebay has anyone used these what seem to be kinda cheapo parts.

a stock 5.0 oil pan. will this fit on my 77 302 block ?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...20169206QQrdZ1


solid motor mounts
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Solid...20805829QQrdZ1

hellas85stang

if you get soilid motor mount you will have vibration and squeaks all over usually... on street...and as far as 77 heads i have had 70 yrs converted over,and had roller cam on them like edel brock rpms and was just as good as e7s as far as reliability nd capatability...alltho i spent 500 in mine from tainless steel valves and biger valves to guide paltes and screw in studz...mine had hydralic springs good for 520 lift and 110-106 lobesep and had a rpm cam too with factory heads...my old heads of 70 are for sale for 150.00good to go and ready...