5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Wet Floor

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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #11  
88stangaruu's Avatar
88stangaruu
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,317
From: Greenville SC
Default RE: Wet Floor

yes, its more than likely that its a heater core.

Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #12  
98F150/GT's Avatar
98F150/GT
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From: Maryland
Default RE: Wet Floor

my heat works fine and if it is the heater core cant you smell some antifreeze?
Old Oct 3, 2006 | 01:52 AM
  #13  
Hung Like a Stang's Avatar
Hung Like a Stang
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Default RE: Wet Floor

ORIGINAL: nseoi

if its not that it might be the condensation drain, check to see if thats clogged, happened to my old passat
+1. Do you have a/c?

that drain gets clogged because of leaves and debris.
Old Oct 3, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #14  
98F150/GT's Avatar
98F150/GT
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From: Maryland
Default RE: Wet Floor

yes i have AC and where is the condensation drain?
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:08 PM
  #15  
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My AC has been a 10 yr 'chase' to find freon gas leaks. When my heater core started leaking, I replaced it. when I had the dash and heater box out, I also replaced the evaporator core to eliminate it as a source of slow freon leaks. The final fix was replacing the black o-rings with green ones for R134A.
Now about your water leak, the grommet where the A/C water drain is (between the Heater box and the firewall) has a "lip" that has to be pushed through the firewall hole. I was working alone and the "lip" ended up pressed up against the firewall from the inside. Once I got the A/C working well, the water dripping out of the drain went mostly inside the car vs dripping on the ground. I had a lake in the passenger side floor pan during a long trip out west. Not wanting to pull the heater box out to get the "lip" pulled through, I put on a brass 1/4" brass elbow into the drain hole. Put a little teflon tape on the threaded side and installed a hose on the ribbed end (set up for a hose.) Routed the hose down and tied it to tie banded it to the frame on the pass side. No more water leak, good A/C and good heat. Enjoy!!

Last edited by Mallonpaulj; Nov 12, 2013 at 12:10 PM. Reason: Your website does not like the word "******" ????
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:03 PM
  #16  
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Duncan_GT
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We don't like zombie threads either. Back from the dead for the 100th time today!
Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:13 PM
  #17  
dawson1112's Avatar
dawson1112
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Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,628
From: ohio
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Originally Posted by Mallonpaulj
My AC has been a 10 yr 'chase' to find freon gas leaks. When my heater core started leaking, I replaced it. when I had the dash and heater box out, I also replaced the evaporator core to eliminate it as a source of slow freon leaks. The final fix was replacing the black o-rings with green ones for R134A.
Now about your water leak, the grommet where the A/C water drain is (between the Heater box and the firewall) has a "lip" that has to be pushed through the firewall hole. I was working alone and the "lip" ended up pressed up against the firewall from the inside. Once I got the A/C working well, the water dripping out of the drain went mostly inside the car vs dripping on the ground. I had a lake in the passenger side floor pan during a long trip out west. Not wanting to pull the heater box out to get the "lip" pulled through, I put on a brass 1/4" brass elbow into the drain hole. Put a little teflon tape on the threaded side and installed a hose on the ribbed end (set up for a hose.) Routed the hose down and tied it to tie banded it to the frame on the pass side. No more water leak, good A/C and good heat. Enjoy!!
Pretty sure he has it figured out by now, if not after 8 years of leaking water onto the floor I suspect it is draining out the rusty hole in the floor board.
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