smbikes

sounds like a computer problem

P Zero

Its either the disty mouonted ign. module or the coil itself. Ive had both of these fail on pre-OBDII cars, problem is there is no realy way to test the ign. module. And in order to test the coil you need to know what resistance youre lookin for. By the time you find it out, itll be cool and wont give an accurate reading. Get a new ign module from your local auto parts store, (theyre cheap), and as for a coil Id even try to find one at a local boneyard cuz theyre hella cheap there, probably no more than 10 bux.
Also, just for ***** and giggles, have you done a compression test? Thats a good way of lookin into how the engine is doing. Just a thought.
-P.

Slo5oh

+1 Ignition module.

kev2369

They actually make a tool to take the four little bolt out of the module, cuz the walls have to be really thin so it requires you to buy the tool. But you can actually have them tested at a parts house, Advance Auto for sure. Try that, after you take the four bolt out and unplug the electrical plug, just pull straight down on it and it will slide out of the distributor. Good luck.

brando5.0

I dont know about the rest of you, but I've seen similar problems with a fuel pump. I've seen pumps that heat up and won't pump, but once they cool off, they re-gain their clearances and run just fine. Next time it kills, even though the pump primes, check fuel presure. Just because the impeller is turning, doesn't mean its doing anything. Otherwise, the ignition module (distributor mounted) has had lots of problems with heat. Just make sure when you put it back on that you give it a little bit of dielectric grease (usually comes with the module).

notch93

Couldnt it be electrical somewhere??? No reason for his fuel pump to kick on when theres no key in the ignition!!

BlueDemon

I had a problem similiar to that and when I replaced the fuel pump relay(underneath the drivers seat) it seemed to fix the problem. Just my $.02 worth