samseed101

I'm not going to be able to make any changes to the tune, etc until i get my fuel pressure regulator installed. It should be here tomorrow. My stock one is shot..ruptured diaphram. So that means the car just sits in the driveway until tomorrow, lol. Then I have to dial in the pressure, raise my WOT breakpoint to 4.0v to keep it in closed loop longer, datalog some Closed Loop drives around town, and then analyze and modify my MAF transfer to make sure everything is still okay.

aode08

good tactic,

ill presume you will change that back to 2.0, and the TPS to 1.250 idle, and pressure to 45-50? pounds per square inch, when your done.

Have you changed to wideband OS sensors or at least new ones for optimal performance? I think your gonna make some good numbers with this setup

samseed101

Both O2 sensors were replaced last year and they're in fine working order. I'm going to buy a wideband setup within the next few weeks so I can dial in the tune a bit tighter. I usually use one at my friend's dyno but it sucks when I am home and just want to do a quick test. I'd rather have something that I own and that I can use anytime I want.

I'll temporarily crank the voltage just to keep in it CL just a bit longer. That way I can hit as many points as possible on my MAF curve while still in closed loop. After I tweak those settings, I'll move on to the open loop / WOT settings with the wideband.

5.0stanger

what is that? I know the base setting at idle of .98 but I have never heard of any other settings. Why would you run somethinf different?

aode08

those are the specs his computer needs to be at. A hci is different, when you supercharge, your on a whole different ramp.

samseed101

The higher setting mentioned above is the seting at which the computer realizes that you want power and it switches to WOT mode / Open Loop. By setting it slightly lower than stock, the computer switches sooner and thus changes to the WOT fuel tables earlier.

With forced induction, the RPMs start to climb REAL fast when you floor it. You will usually want the switch to happen pretty damned fast as well so you don't run into any problems. So by lowering the voltage, you are telling the computer to switch to WOT mode a split second before you actually cross the threshhold and open the throttle all the way.

samseed101

I know this is old, but I thought of someting that I never noticed before, which explains why you have enough room to dump it into the fender well. With the SN95, the procharger is a 6-rib pulley that is driven by the serpentine belt. But in the older foxes, it has a seperate belt driven by a seperate pulley. That means that it sits forward a little over an inch (just saw that in your bracket.) And that extra inch or so of clearance makes all the difference in the world.

Looking at your setup, if we took away that little extra gap then you'd have clearance troubles too. i guess that means that there's officially no way to squeeze it in there. (I checked out the other options we talked about awhile back too...same issue and this is why.)

I just thought of it again because I'm in the process of finding a way to make a nice custom box. Then all I have to do is cut away at the inner fender. It's sitll better than nothing I suppose.