5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Question???

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Old 11-18-2007, 07:20 PM
  #11  
mjr46
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Default RE: Question???

ORIGINAL: suzukispeeder

they were the autolite 25 is that right.

I dont know whats going on I just put the top end back together and all this happens I dont know whats wrong, unless I could have it that bad outta time, but it still seems like it still should have some clearance. I guess I just need to tare down the whole engine to make sure I should have done it while it was taken 2 weeks to get a valve job. If I put anymore money in it I will have to keep it and I wasnt planning on keeping it but I want it fixed right.

Could the timing be that bad off to cause the sparkplug to get tapped or could I have put the pushrods and rockers back on wrong any ideas and help appreciated
what probably happened to the plug is you weren't paying attention and or it may of fallen on the ground and you didn't bother to check the gap after that or the box was dropped and it happened then..I've pulled plugs out of the box new like that before and sometimes I've dropped them and not bothered to check the gap and it makes the car run rough upon start up.....unless the plug was physically damaged I wouldn't worry about it...regap it and start it back up and see how it runs....now of course if you are 100 percent sure the plug was fine when you installed it then you could have a more serious issue
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Old 11-18-2007, 08:09 PM
  #12  
suzukispeeder
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Default RE: Question???

yea I'm sure they were new plugs and I gapped them to 50 before I put them in.

It loped so bad that it cut off so I did adjust idle and backed outta the garage and was going to turn the electric fan on and when I did it cut off, and wouldnt start back so thats when I took plugs out to clean to put back and thats when I saw the plug damaged.

I stabbed the dizzy like the post said which is good cause my bro-in-law always pointed the rotor at #1 cylinder not #1 plug on dizzy I hope the one in the tech article was right.

The only thing I figure is one of the 2 mechanics that worked on it for him messed up because the 2nd said the cam, sprockets, or something was backwards. The 1st changed bearings and journals because the oil shaft broke so when he fixed it he did bearings and journals. Ive put 200 in valve job and 150 in gaskets and sensors but id rather tear it down before it takes more money to fix if something major happens. The motor is pretty strong so I hope to fix too cold too play on the streetbike.

I'll probly mess with it 2morrow and see then Ill decide what imma gonna do any ideas not looking to foward to tearing it down again because the head gaskets I'm sure will be messed up. But i might need to see if the piston has any marks on it. Has anyone ever switched there efi to carb is it hard and what all does it consist of

I have a 351 block at the shop maybe I should just build that and switch to carburated

the cam is a lunati with 110 lobe seperation
lunati pushrods
crane rollers
GT 40 intake manifold
70 mm throttle body with tuned mass
edelbrock performer heads

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