UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE !!!!! got the new FUEL PUMP in- check this out
The pic lists injectors and what they are usually found in, mine came from a Mercury Mountaineer with the GT40P motor (same motor as the Explorer). As far as driveability problems, I was refering to MAF recalibration and all the associated crap of being cheap and not buying an aftermarket tuner lol.
The ones I got are next to the stock Mustang injectors, the thinner ones.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13212/9591EEC6FAB74F918E86484AB5B6AAD5.jpg[/IMG]
The ones I got are next to the stock Mustang injectors, the thinner ones.
[IMG]local://upfiles/13212/9591EEC6FAB74F918E86484AB5B6AAD5.jpg[/IMG]
well, when i pulled it all apart it had a holley hp fuel pump in it. i was kinda disappointed cause i was hoping to find a weak stock pump. i went ahead and installed the new pump cause i figured that the pump might have gotten weak or something. so far no spitting and sputtering like it was but the car just doent feel like its running to its potential. I was expecting a big diffrence with the edelbrock heads and roller rockers and i cant tell a huge diffrence like i was expecting. i never have had a timing light on it. what should i set the timing at- i think that could be a factor. What do you guys think ? I am disappointed about all of this crap, i think i might sell the car if i cant get it figured out soon.
When you swapped heads, did you check pushrod length? The coughing and sputtering happened to me on my Firebird when I changed heads. They put longer valves in the heads I got so I needed longer pushrods, the car ran like *** until I got that sorted out. Coughing, sputtering, no power all these things and more because of wrong pushrod length. The valves were not opening enough to it killed performance. Also if the are misadjusted they will do the same thing the valves wont open or open too much and cause the car to run like ***.
When you did the fuel pump did you do the fuel filter in front of the tank as well? I did mine for insurance, I figured I would have more suction and have more of a chance of picking something up or possibly dislodging something so I played it safe with a fresh filter.
As far as timing, I would try 10 1st, then bump to 12 or 14, that seems to be the sweet spot with most 5.0's I am running 20 but I think the balancer is off and haven't had a chance to check it for accuracy as of yet. Definently put a timing light on it, that could be some problem as well.
When you did the fuel pump did you do the fuel filter in front of the tank as well? I did mine for insurance, I figured I would have more suction and have more of a chance of picking something up or possibly dislodging something so I played it safe with a fresh filter.
As far as timing, I would try 10 1st, then bump to 12 or 14, that seems to be the sweet spot with most 5.0's I am running 20 but I think the balancer is off and haven't had a chance to check it for accuracy as of yet. Definently put a timing light on it, that could be some problem as well.
i used stock length hardened pushrods and i got a professional engine builder to put my heads on to make sure everything was adjusted as it should be. Edelbrock reccomended stock length pushrods on their website. i dont know wtf is going on [
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well it started doing the same old sh*t today, so i guess i wasted my time and money with the fuel pump. i am sure i have a vaccum leak at my egr so i guess i need to get it plugged off somehow and scan it for codes.
in a way, i want to carburete it to solve these problems but it runs so damn good when its right. if i could get the bugs worked out it would be all worth it cause this biatch will scream when its right. it has only ran great a few times since the heads were on and i know it wasnt running to its full potential then and it was gettin the hell away from here
i think its just a sensor or a bad ground or some SIMPLE problem with a simple solution- any ideas. it just starts sputtering from time to time and gets better and goes back to normal after a short while- ANY IDEAS GUYS ?????


