cyman73

Hello all,

Just picked up two new OEM rotors for my 87 GT on EBAY. Paid 88 bucks including shipping for two of them,
part number F1ZC-1K002-AA. I can't find this part number on the web, so can anyone tell me if they are right for my car (the item description said so but I just want to check)? I realize I should have checked before buying.

I've done brakes in the past, but I was wondering if anyone has instructions of how to do this job on the Mustang. Just want to make sure I don't have any surprises.

When changing the front rotors does the bearing need to be repacked or changed?

Thank you.

StangTangGT

ok so what else do you need to know? couldnt tell ya if its the right number or not. 1st take the calipers off, then take the castle nut off of the bearings and slide the rotor off. reapack the bearings while you have to pull them out anyways. slide the bearings into the new rotors and put the rotor on the spindle. then put the castle nut back on with a new cotter pin and you are done. its very easy just kinda time consuming.

86HOGT

I'd get new wheel seals too. Very cheap insurance.

mustang8719

And don't just tighten the nut tight and go or you will burn the bearings up.
Tighten the nut and spin the rotor to get the bearings to seat properly.Then slightly back off till the rotor spins fairly easy then install the cotter pin.Adjusting the nut properly might take a couple of times till you get it right.

Demon_Mustang

Here's a caution before you follow mustang8719's suggestion. Not only should you not over-tighten, you cannot undertighten either. IT SHOULD NOT SPIN FREELY!

But before I get into the proper tightness in more detail, let me tell you the other things to watch out for first.

First, you might as well get a new set of bearings and grease seal for the car too while you're at it. I think there's an online vendor called gmoldtimeparts through ebay that sells wheel bearings and seal for about $24 I think.

Secondly, go to your parts store and get some new grease, it's not expensive, and just get the best one they offer. And use plenty of grease on your bearings and inside the center cavity on the rotors.

Third, NEVER REUSE YOUR COTTER PINS. The nut that holds the rotor and bearings in place are held on by a cap that is held by a cotter pin. When you bend the prongs on that pin to remove it, throw it away and use a new one. Trust me, metal breaks after being bent back and forth, and this little pin is basically all that is stoping that nut from turning with the wheel and possibly loosening and coming off.

Ok, here's the tightening part. Do not overtighten it so that you cannot move the rotor with your hand. What you do is, once you get all the bearings and everything in place, push everything in as tight as you can and then tighten the nut to that place. Make sure there is no wobble, try to pull out and push in and pull out and push in, there should not be any movement in the rotor. At this point you can spin the rotor and it'll spin pretty nice and you think that's good. Wrong, tighten the nut more so when you try to spin the rotor, it should spin but stop on it's own about half a spin after you let go. It shouldn't continue spinning on it's own. The reason for this is if the nut is too loose, your rotor will actually wobble a little while you're driving.

This wobbling will end up pushing the caliper pistons back everytime you're off the brakes and you'd end up pumping your brakes everytime you want to stop. You'll wonder if there is air in the lines or a leak, but no matter how many times you check for that you'd find nothing. The problem is your rotors are too loose. So make sure the rotors stop spinning shortly after you let go of it, do not make it so loose that it spins freely, even if you don't detect a wobble, it will start to wobble once you're driving. This is bad for your rotor, bad for your brakes, bad for your bearings, and even bad for your tires.