rear main seal
#1
rear main seal
can someone tell me how to put one in correctly, me and my friend have attempted this twice on his 86 5.0 hatch. and it's not seating correctly at all and keeps leaking, i took the old one and tapped the new one with it, and it still doesent seat right and keeps leaking oil everywhere
#7
RE: rear main seal
are you putting oil on the seal when you install it if you start it up dry it will damage the seal and it will leak. I have also seen worn main bearing make them leak. also if you have to much crank end play they will leak. and like said above to much blow by/crank case pressurewill make them leak also.
#9
RE: rear main seal
Like MJR46 said, check the crank surface for grooves. If there's enough to catch with a thumbnail, it's enough to leak. You can get a repair sleeve for it. It's a thin chromed metal sleeve that fits' tightly over the end of the crank and create a new sealing sirface.
Installation of the new seal has to be done carefully. If not, it will get ovaled and leak. Clean the surfaces really well. Make sure there's not oil anywhere. Apply a very thin smear of silicone sealant to the metal-to-metal sealing surfaces of the seal. Use a seal driver to gently tap it into place. You can make a seal driver out of PVC tubing and a cap. Or a piece of muffler tubing.
Since you have the flywheel off, be sure and check the oil gally plugs in the back of the engine. A small leak there looks like a RMS seal.
Excess crank case pressure will cause the seal to leak. Fortunatly, that easy to test for. With the engine running, remove the dipstick. With your thumb over dispstick hole, you can feel the crank case pressure. There should be a little, but not much. Be sure and check it at higher rpm's.
And, finally, are you sure it's the RMS? Almost every leak on a SBF shows up on the front of the block plate. It could be something simple like oil pressure sender, or a valve cover. A leak at the rear of the oil pan definatly looks like a RMS. Go to a shop that has a smoke machine. Then you'll probably find your leak.
Installation of the new seal has to be done carefully. If not, it will get ovaled and leak. Clean the surfaces really well. Make sure there's not oil anywhere. Apply a very thin smear of silicone sealant to the metal-to-metal sealing surfaces of the seal. Use a seal driver to gently tap it into place. You can make a seal driver out of PVC tubing and a cap. Or a piece of muffler tubing.
Since you have the flywheel off, be sure and check the oil gally plugs in the back of the engine. A small leak there looks like a RMS seal.
Excess crank case pressure will cause the seal to leak. Fortunatly, that easy to test for. With the engine running, remove the dipstick. With your thumb over dispstick hole, you can feel the crank case pressure. There should be a little, but not much. Be sure and check it at higher rpm's.
And, finally, are you sure it's the RMS? Almost every leak on a SBF shows up on the front of the block plate. It could be something simple like oil pressure sender, or a valve cover. A leak at the rear of the oil pan definatly looks like a RMS. Go to a shop that has a smoke machine. Then you'll probably find your leak.
#10
RE: rear main seal
The flat part faces you.You must install it flush, I used a rubber mallet and take my time going slow.
Any imperfection from using rtv, or a metal instrument will make the seal leak as well.
Any imperfection from using rtv, or a metal instrument will make the seal leak as well.
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tj@steeda
Steeda Autosports
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09-16-2015 07:53 PM