5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

rear main seal

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Old 06-28-2008, 03:05 PM
  #1  
onthemovewitha232
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Default rear main seal

can someone tell me how to put one in correctly, me and my friend have attempted this twice on his 86 5.0 hatch. and it's not seating correctly at all and keeps leaking, i took the old one and tapped the new one with it, and it still doesent seat right and keeps leaking oil everywhere
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Old 06-28-2008, 03:46 PM
  #2  
primetime5.0
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Default RE: rear main seal

you might be putting it in correctly and maybe your having to much crankcase pressure and it causes the seal to fail
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Old 06-28-2008, 03:55 PM
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onthemovewitha232
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Default RE: rear main seal

well if that's the case how do i relieve crankcase pressure temporarily?
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Old 06-28-2008, 04:14 PM
  #4  
primetime5.0
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Default RE: rear main seal

fresh pcv and crankcase breather
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Old 06-28-2008, 04:55 PM
  #5  
onthemovewitha232
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Default RE: rear main seal

he says they are both brand new, could we remove them for a crank up when we install it then put it back on when running/ initial start up
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Old 06-28-2008, 06:21 PM
  #6  
primetime5.0
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Default RE: rear main seal

it'll still blow the seal out, are you running the tube from the vc to the tb?
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Old 06-28-2008, 07:46 PM
  #7  
uedlose
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Default RE: rear main seal

are you putting oil on the seal when you install it if you start it up dry it will damage the seal and it will leak. I have also seen worn main bearing make them leak. also if you have to much crank end play they will leak. and like said above to much blow by/crank case pressurewill make them leak also.
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Old 06-28-2008, 07:59 PM
  #8  
mjr46
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Default RE: rear main seal

also make sure there is not a groove worn in the crankshaft..if so you could put a 100 seals in and they will all leak
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:01 PM
  #9  
.boB
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Default RE: rear main seal

Like MJR46 said, check the crank surface for grooves. If there's enough to catch with a thumbnail, it's enough to leak. You can get a repair sleeve for it. It's a thin chromed metal sleeve that fits' tightly over the end of the crank and create a new sealing sirface.

Installation of the new seal has to be done carefully. If not, it will get ovaled and leak. Clean the surfaces really well. Make sure there's not oil anywhere. Apply a very thin smear of silicone sealant to the metal-to-metal sealing surfaces of the seal. Use a seal driver to gently tap it into place. You can make a seal driver out of PVC tubing and a cap. Or a piece of muffler tubing.

Since you have the flywheel off, be sure and check the oil gally plugs in the back of the engine. A small leak there looks like a RMS seal.

Excess crank case pressure will cause the seal to leak. Fortunatly, that easy to test for. With the engine running, remove the dipstick. With your thumb over dispstick hole, you can feel the crank case pressure. There should be a little, but not much. Be sure and check it at higher rpm's.

And, finally, are you sure it's the RMS? Almost every leak on a SBF shows up on the front of the block plate. It could be something simple like oil pressure sender, or a valve cover. A leak at the rear of the oil pan definatly looks like a RMS. Go to a shop that has a smoke machine. Then you'll probably find your leak.
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:52 PM
  #10  
aode08
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Default RE: rear main seal

The flat part faces you.You must install it flush, I used a rubber mallet and take my time going slow.

Any imperfection from using rtv, or a metal instrument will make the seal leak as well.
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