Fuel level sender Ohms
#11
no problem
I don't think that'll solve the issue I mean fresh wiring is nice but you need a sender with the proper calibrated resistance for your new gauge to operate correctly..IIRC in the instructions it said you can purchase them if needed???
I don't think that'll solve the issue I mean fresh wiring is nice but you need a sender with the proper calibrated resistance for your new gauge to operate correctly..IIRC in the instructions it said you can purchase them if needed???
#12
Speaking of different sending units mjr, do you know if there was a difference or which were different between the 79-85's? I'm gonna go to the junk yard and go the cheap route with in getting my gauge to work correctly. I'm tired of knowing only when I am on the last 2 gallons. I want to know where I'm at most of the time lol.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...0%201&comp=LRS
#13
Speaking of different sending units mjr, do you know if there was a difference or which were different between the 79-85's? I'm gonna go to the junk yard and go the cheap route with in getting my gauge to work correctly. I'm tired of knowing only when I am on the last 2 gallons. I want to know where I'm at most of the time lol.
Am I to assume that I can just pull the tank and there, conveniently located in a very easy to reach area will be the sending unit, which after a screw and plug will be quickly replaced without any complicated calibration, and we all live happily ever after? In other words, can I do this without screwing something up in the process?
Last edited by Project 5.GO!; 10-17-2008 at 03:12 PM.
#14
Well years back my brother and I swapped to an efi tank to run a efi setup in my 83 but I decided to stay carbed. The EFI unit reads the opposite direction of what it is supposed to and the ohms readings are completly different too. So when I have pretty much anything over 2 gallons it reads empty then when it ets close it starts dropping quickly. I'll go around corners and it will move to the full mark and then slowly go back to empty or where ever it want to read. The strip the sending unit reads is all worn down and old.
The sending unit for your car is located in the center of the tank on the top. It isn't always easy to get the lock ring loose so be sure to soak it in PB blaster and take your time tapping it off. Get a haynes manual if you don't have one just in case lol. It is pretty easy to replace. I think I am gonna have to get the gauge that is in whatever car I get the tank/ sending unit from just to make sure that it all works together.
The sending unit for your car is located in the center of the tank on the top. It isn't always easy to get the lock ring loose so be sure to soak it in PB blaster and take your time tapping it off. Get a haynes manual if you don't have one just in case lol. It is pretty easy to replace. I think I am gonna have to get the gauge that is in whatever car I get the tank/ sending unit from just to make sure that it all works together.
#15
^^^^^^^^^^^if you plan on installing a 84-85 style sending unit in your efi tank, you'll need to remove the baffle, when I finally decided to get rid of my 85 cfi/efi tank to use a 85 carb sending unit I ditched the tank due to rust and used a 85 carb tank as it has no baffle set up in it
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