92hatchLX

Hey guys, I was wondering what exactly aftermarket control arms do for you. I know that most of you guys have them and I have heard that they help you with your ET's and short times. Can someone point me in the right direction for the control arms and some good drag shocks. I'm trying to decide if I should do my exhaust next or my suspension.

Quik

if you get non adjustables. bascially all they are, are boxed in bars. with the stockers being stamped they tend to twist and flex. when you get boxed ones they are now stronger and dont flex. less flex=better hook. i got macs upper and lowers. you really dont need adjustables unless youre a straight out track car.

suspension is the way to go first for hooking abilty. ppl mistake this step and go right onto the motor. so now they got this built up motor that only sees 14s cause they cant hook up. then you got this guy over here with nothing done to the motor and al lsuspension wooping ppls ***** badly at the track.

now for youre exhaust, nothing beats the sound of a good set of flows on a stang. do exhaust first then go about doing suspension.

my car used to be setup like this. stock motor, pulleys, bbk unequal shorties, bbk off road Hpipe, american thunder cat back. 3k stall, transgo shiftkit, uretene tranny mount, Mac Upper/Lower arms, monroe gas matic shocks, FRPP C springs along with 26x1050x16 et streets along with 410s, some weight reduction and my car took alot of ppl by suprise, even a few LS1s.....use this as a thought for maybe your setup

92hatchLX

What were you running with your previous setup, and where would I go to look for all of this suspension stuff?

92stang

jegs.com or summitracing.com both good reputable companies.

92hatchLX

I know both those companies, I just wasn't sure if they carried all that stuff.

LESNOVR

I agree with OHSOQUICK. Do your suspension and chassis mods first. They are cheaper and will reduce your ET's faster then Engine mods with stock suspension. My chassis is completely done on my 92 Vert and no Engine mods other then Cold Air and Exhaust. But I have hotchkis upper and lower , weld in subframes(a must with a convert) and a 6point cage. Now the cage is required in a Convert if you run 13.99 or faster. Now you can get away with running PURESTOCK without a cage , but you may not have any power adders and be as the car comes from the factory. They do alow drag radials and exhaust if it exits behind drivers seat. But here is the thing a stock GT with gears, exhaust and a 75hp shot of funny gas will put you in the low 13's IF YOU HOOK UP! So in short go with suspension , make it launch and then put power to the motor Just my opinion. Trust me from experiance. If you tree a guy and launch him by a car or more and he is spinning it takes ALOT of horsepower to run you down. So he may have you by 50-100 hp and never catch you.

vfast

the tubalur a-arms take about 20 or so pounds off the front...one's like from griggs,keeny brown,max motorsports are great..but there are other nice one out there also a manual rack take another 25 or so off the front....for a street car the box ones are ok the aluminum save wt. OH 7 I are on the same page....losing wieght off the front just helps your 60 foot time and lets face it alot of race on the street are over in about an 1/8 miles or less...